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Wild Styles and EPatterns
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splainer
Posted 2012-08-06 6:21 AM (#82962)
Subject: Wild Styles and EPatterns


New User

Posts: 3

Hi,

When I started looking at the Wild Styles in PMB, I had gone in expecting that these would illustrate design settings appropriate for these styles. I was therefore surprised to see default settings that seem more like the fitting garments in several places (e.g., chest, waist. hip, and crotch ease, neck width). I am happy to see that on the EPatterns site the settings for patterns available in Wild Styles are there to study. But why aren't the settings in the Wild Styles themselves?

Thanks,
Julianne
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2012-08-06 8:55 AM (#82963 - in reply to #82962)
Subject: RE: Wild Styles and EPatterns



Administrator

Posts: 3006
20001000
Location: Auburn, AL
Hi,

We do not have Wild Styles in ePatterns. ePatterns are separate stand alone patterns not sold as part of a larger software program. The settings available are specific to the style you purchase and will change with each style.

Wild Styles is part of PatternMaster and not sold as a separate entity. The settings available for PatternMaster Wild Styles are the same settings available for all garments in a particular garment type.

You can view the garment settings when you are on the PatternMaster Wild Styles screen by selecting a style and then clicking on the Summary tab. The settings for PatternMaster Wild Styles are partly determined by the style itself and partly determined by your own default settings.
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splainer
Posted 2012-08-07 6:39 AM (#82975 - in reply to #82963)
Subject: RE: Wild Styles and EPatterns


New User

Posts: 3

Thanks for the quick reply, Lisa.

I guess my puzzle is really about the settings in the WildStyles themselves. I was expecting that the wild styles would take my measurements, add appropriate ease for the style, and basically be kind of point-and-click starters for these types of garments. But when I browse through them--every one of them--many of the settings are exactly the same, and do not make sense to me. For example, every one of them has chest ease of 2.5, waist ease of .75, and hip ease of 2.5. The finished garment measurements shown in the summary are equal (or close to) those ease measurements plus my own body measurements. These make no sense except for close fitting garments, which most of these wild styles do not seem meant to be.

For example, Jacket 1103 is a cape, which in the drawing looks very loose fitting as you would expect. But the finished garment measurements in the Summary for total chest width, total waist width, and total hip width are 36.5, 27.2, and 40.5, respectively. That's basically my measurements + the ease measurements mentioned above. I see the same oddity for neck settings, where regardless of the style, the settings for Front Neckline Depth, Back Neckline Depth, and Neckline Width are 0.5, 0.5, and 0.25, respectively.

The reason I compare them to EPatterns is that at the moment, every line drawing for one of the EPatterns for Women looks identical to one of the Wild Styles. But the ease settings shown on the web site are all different, and make more sense to me than what I see in Wild Styles. I am basically using the settings in the EPatterns as a guide to settings in the Wild Styles. But why aren't the settings in Wild Styles more useful already?

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2012-08-07 9:56 AM (#82977 - in reply to #82962)
Subject: Re: Wild Styles and EPatterns



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Wild Styles use your defaults for ease.

Open the sample measurements, change the name and save. Use this chart so you won't make a change you don't want to your chart.

Open jackets. Go to File - Defaults and set the default ease for jackets for that chart to 5 - 5- 5.

Now open a wild Style Jacket. You will see it is drafting to your defaults.
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margie2
Posted 2016-02-04 2:30 PM (#90931 - in reply to #82977)
Subject: Re: Wild Styles and EPatterns


Elite Veteran

Posts: 751
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I know this is an old thread, but it relates to my question.

I noticed that the ease amounts and the armhole depth for WS jackets 1102, 1104, 1105, and 1106 are all different. 1104 and 1105 are the same, but different from the other two. So, I did as Karen suggested and created a chart using the Sample Measurements and increased the ease to 5" for jackets. When I opened these four WS patterns in the new Sample Chart, I get the same amounts I got with my own measurements. 1102, Ease = 5", AD = 1": 1104 Ease = 4", AD = 0": 1105 Ease = 4", AD = 0", 1106 Ease = 3.5", AD = .5" under Settings. Settings did not show the new default ease. The Fit Summary does show the new default ease.

My original question was to be: Is there a correlation between the amount of ease and the amount of armhole depth that should be used in a jacket?

But, now I have more questions. Why does the default amount not show up in the Wild Styles patterns under Settings, but does show up on the Fit Summary? How do I know which is correct?
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2016-02-04 3:29 PM (#90932 - in reply to #90931)
Subject: Re: Wild Styles and EPatterns



Tech Support

50005000100010025
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Swill check the WS settings.

I think the looser a jacket the lower the armhole to allow it to fit over other garments. A close fitting jacket would only go over a shell or thin top, while a jacket with more ease could be worn over a sweater, so the armhole needs more depth.
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margie2
Posted 2016-02-04 3:47 PM (#90933 - in reply to #90932)
Subject: Re: Wild Styles and EPatterns


Elite Veteran

Posts: 751
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I was hoping for a magic formula that would tell me how much to lower the armhole with x amount of ease. I know that the armhole has to be larger on a coat to over other clothing and you can get away with a lesser amount of ease on a jacket, depending on fabric and how the jacket is to be worn. It is just a subject that has always baffled me on how to decide how much.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2016-02-04 9:08 PM (#90937 - in reply to #90933)
Subject: Re: Wild Styles and EPatterns



Administrator

Posts: 3006
20001000
Location: Auburn, AL
margie2 - 2016-02-04 2:47 PM

I was hoping for a magic formula that would tell me how much to lower the armhole with x amount of ease. I know that the armhole has to be larger on a coat to over other clothing and you can get away with a lesser amount of ease on a jacket, depending on fabric and how the jacket is to be worn. It is just a subject that has always baffled me on how to decide how much.


There is no magic formula. The type of fabric you choose and the style details and sleeves will all affect how much ease and lowered armhole you may want. Try comparing your fit garment to jackets you have in your closet. That will give you some indication of the choices you like.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2016-02-04 9:19 PM (#90938 - in reply to #90931)
Subject: Re: Wild Styles and EPatterns



Administrator

Posts: 3006
20001000
Location: Auburn, AL
margie2 - 2016-02-04 1:30 PM

But, now I have more questions. Why does the default amount not show up in the Wild Styles patterns under Settings, but does show up on the Fit Summary? How do I know which is correct?


The Fit Defaults Summary shows what you have set as the default settings to use each time you first go to a garment screen. When you open a pattern from Wild Styles, it uses the settings I have set for that style which overrides the default settings so that it can create the style as I have designed it.

Changing a setting from the defaults on the Settings tab works the same way. It overrides the fit default settings but does not change what shows on the Fit Defaults summary. This is also no different than what happens when you open a style you saved in the style catalog. It uses the ease and armhole depth settings you chose for that style which may override the default settings.
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margie2
Posted 2016-02-05 12:50 PM (#90942 - in reply to #90937)
Subject: Re: Wild Styles and EPatterns


Elite Veteran

Posts: 751
5001001002525
Thanks, Lisa for your explanation. I have used clothing from my closet to decide how I want to draft something and it works well.

I have gotten into fur and leather and know that the adjustments for those fabrics will be different. I made My Size Barbie a fur coat and the sleeves are too tight. Of course, it doesn't show and she will never feel the constriction. I need to figure out where I went wrong when I drafted the sleeves. I use her to try out sewing methods and sometimes designs. I got the idea from Kenneth King. One of my daughters bought her a pair of white leather boots with fur around the top. She needed a fur coat to go with them! I also had to figure out which of my machines was best for sewing fur.
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