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Side seam move.
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StMike
Posted 2012-06-10 1:32 PM (#82007)
Subject: Side seam move.



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Under what circumstances would one want to move side seams on a woman's bodice pattern to the front or back?  Would you have to move the shoulder seams to match?  I had a pattren with unbalanced armscye and found I could improve things by moving the side seams back -.75".  ButI was not sure how fit would be affected by the change?  

Edited by StMike 2012-06-10 1:33 PM
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Cristina
Posted 2012-06-10 3:42 PM (#82014 - in reply to #82007)
Subject: Re: Side seam move.


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Side seam may be moved from a center position
toward the front for big cup sizes patterns
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Sewhappy
Posted 2012-06-11 12:54 PM (#82033 - in reply to #82007)
Subject: RE: Side seam move.


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StMike,

I have my side arm setting default at -.5 because I find that it removes excess fabric just above the bust at the armscye (scoops the armscye out a little).  This also adds a touch more fabric to the back at the bottom of the armscye where I like a little more for mobility.

I wouldn't think you'd need (or want) to change the shoulder location if it's good in the sloper.

I move the side seam at the waist to the back (+.5), my back waist is narrow and this helps remove some of the ease from that area while maintaining the desired garment circumference.  This is achieved by drafting larger back and smaller front waist darts. 

The side hip could be changed if someone wanted more of the circumference to the front or back at that level.  In this case the seam is pivoted forward or backward from the bottom point of the armscye, causing the whole side seam to move.

One of my RTW blouses I've measured actually has much of the side seam moved to the back, almost by an inch!

This blouse fits very nicely and I think the effect is to silhouette the back and let the front drape.

Some also like to mimic the look of some RTW jeans by moving the side seam forward.  This is to give the illusion of being slimmer when viewed from the front.

 
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SueC56
Posted 2012-06-11 1:33 PM (#82037 - in reply to #82033)
Subject: RE: Side seam move.


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and does it do the opposite for the view from behind? LOL
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StMike
Posted 2012-06-11 2:15 PM (#82038 - in reply to #82033)
Subject: RE: Side seam move.



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Thank you, Sewhappy.  Your answer has helped me a lot.  Very detailed and clear.

Cristina, I also appreciated your answer which adds to the information provided by Sewhappy.



Edited by StMike 2012-06-11 2:18 PM
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Cristina
Posted 2012-06-11 5:46 PM (#82050 - in reply to #82038)
Subject: RE: Side seam move.


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Mike, I heard something very interesting:

that we do not see a garment only with our physical eyes
but we all get a "sense" that appreciates if a garment is right or not

and when the front pattern is half circumference
but the body in the front is biger than half circumference

that "sense" is telling us: something is wrong

it's funny that
in fact we do not know exactly
why a thing doesn't look right
but if we change for example the Side Seam position
than that hidden "sense" is quite content.
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Sewhappy
Posted 2012-06-11 5:55 PM (#82051 - in reply to #82037)
Subject: RE: Side seam move.


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SueC56 - 2012-06-11 10:33 AM and does it do the opposite for the view from behind? LOL

 If only Sue C.  

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Cate - Gold Coast
Posted 2012-06-16 7:15 PM (#82168 - in reply to #82007)
Subject: Re: Side seam move.


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The sideseam is designed to be equal front and back - which is fine if the body is also equal.

HOwever if you measure my circumfereance you would find there is more of me at the back at bust and hip level but there is more of me at the front at waist level.

So I move my waist sideseam to put more fabric in the front.

It is particularly noticeable in pants where the sideseam sits perfectly from hip to ankle but without an adjustment, the top 3 inches angle toward the front.
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