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Vintage? Blouse
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   All Things Sewing - Public -> Vintage DesignsMessage format
 
JillRN1995
Posted 2012-03-10 10:16 PM (#80556)
Subject: Vintage? Blouse



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Location: Louisiana
I am hesitant to call this vintage since the pattern that I used for inspiration was printed in 1982. I was an adult in 1982 so that bothers me just a bit!

Anyway, here is the pattern that I used for inspiration. I modified a shawl collar to look like View 2 (pink blouse) and I drafted a cuff like in View 1 (white blouse)

If you saw my Nordstrom blouse, then this pattern was modified from that basic pattern.

I used a navy challis with small white dots. I'm unsure of the fiber content. I bought the piece at a Trash and Treasure sale sponsored by our local Rotary club.
It washes very nicely and it's so comfortable! I plan to make more since it's quick to put together and ideal for Louisiana spring weather.

Jill





(5451.jpg)



(Blouse Front.JPG)



(photo.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments 5451.jpg (42KB - 3 downloads)
Attachments Blouse Front.JPG (59KB - 3 downloads)
Attachments photo.JPG (78KB - 3 downloads)
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ambro0
Posted 2012-03-10 11:03 PM (#80557 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse



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Location: Queensland, Australia

Jill,

Love your blouse!! Congratulations on such a good job of recreating the style and thanks for sharing! Presumably you used PMB to do this.

 

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Susan Palmer
Posted 2012-03-10 11:28 PM (#80559 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: Re: Vintage? Blouse



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Really cute blouse! Is the sleeve a kimono style with the cuff sewn on the edge, or cuff with deep hem, then turned up?

Susan
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-03-10 11:47 PM (#80561 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: Re: Vintage? Blouse



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Location: Louisiana
I used the classic blouse with a cut on cap sleeve. The commercial pattern has side darts, but I used torso waist darts instead. I raised the shoulder height and extended it out to form a modified dolman. By doing that I was able to retain some shoulder shaping.

The cuff is a separate piece that I drafted. I used PMB for the basic pattern and then drafted the collar, sleeves, and cuffs by hand.

I used the shawl collar with a stand to start, then I overlaid the collar from the commercial pattern on top to get the collar shape.

I studied the cuff piece from the commercial pattern to figure out how they did it. They used the armhole as a guide for the part that attaches to the sleeve and then I used a French curve for the shape above that.

Jill

Edited by JillRN1995 2012-03-10 11:50 PM
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-03-11 12:11 AM (#80562 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse



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Here are a few pics to clarify what I did.

I drafted 3 darts for the front and back. I did not sew the middle dart on the front and I only sewed one dart on the back.

For the cuff I overlapped the shoulder seam line and then drew the cuff piece.

Jill

Edited by JillRN1995 2012-03-11 12:15 AM




(Blouse Front Pattern.JPG)



(Close up sleeve and collar.JPG)



(Cuff.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments Blouse Front Pattern.JPG (59KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments Close up sleeve and collar.JPG (58KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments Cuff.JPG (80KB - 1 downloads)
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Cristina
Posted 2012-03-11 1:11 AM (#80566 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: Re: Vintage? Blouse


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Thank you a lot for these details. I am happy to see that you share so many things with us.
Did you sew the dart between the collar and V - line of the neck?
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-03-11 1:13 AM (#80567 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: Re: Vintage? Blouse



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Yes I sewed the dart but I didn't use the back neck facing piece.
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JoAnndjob
Posted 2012-03-12 3:45 PM (#80607 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: Re: Vintage? Blouse



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Location: San Diego, CA
I love your blouse and I have that pattern! Just might copy it when I have time and fabric.
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barbara
Posted 2012-03-12 8:46 PM (#80612 - in reply to #80607)
Subject: Re: Vintage? Blouse


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How did you get a torso dart? All I see is a waist dart. How did you raise the shoulder, did you use the shoulder pad setting or something else?
also did you extend the shoulder point. How do you extend the shoulder, when I tried to do that I lost the cut on cap.

i had a pattern that I wanted to try get this affect, but I never got it to work out. I just used the pattern.
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patmiller3
Posted 2012-03-13 8:54 AM (#80615 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse


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I love your blouse!
Thank you for sharing the details of how you did it.

Pat
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-03-13 10:32 AM (#80621 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse



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Here is a screen shot of where to select a torso dart.



(Torso Darts.PNG)



Attachments
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Attachments Torso Darts.PNG (24KB - 0 downloads)
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-03-13 11:02 AM (#80626 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse



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Location: Louisiana

Barbara asked:

"How did you raise the shoulder, did you use the shoulder pad setting or something else?
also did you extend the shoulder point. How do you extend the shoulder, when I tried to do that I lost the cut on cap."

 

I've learned that there are two ways to go about this.  This is how I did the blouse in the picture.  In the following post I'll show an easier way.

Settings:

Classic Blouse

Single Breasted

Button size 0.5

Front Neckline: Shawl

Fitted side seam

+1 Hemline Flare

Ease:  (This made a semi fitted to loose fitting blouse.  Reduce ease or increase darts for a more fitted garment)

 Bust 3

 Waist 4.5

 Hip 5.5

Darts: 

Draft 3 Front and 3 back Torso darts.  I did not sew the middle front torso dart and I only sewed one back dart. 

I extended the 1st front dart to the hemline, tapering to about 1/4"

Armhole Depth 1.25

Shoulder Pad 1.25

Cut on Cap Sleeve

 

I began at the neckline point and raised to shoulder another 1/4" to the shoulder point, then I tapered an inch to the sleeve hem.

I added 1" at the armscye/side seam for the sleeve to extend out. 

The hemline on the sleeve is gently curved.

See picture below.

 





(photo.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments photo.JPG (22KB - 0 downloads)
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JillRN1995
Posted 2012-03-13 11:17 AM (#80627 - in reply to #80556)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse



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Posts: 464
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Location: Louisiana
The easier way to do this would have been to select a kimono sleeve to begin with and then reshape it a bit.

Choose the squared Kimono setting

Short sleeve.

2 is the minimum available to select

Sleeve hem circumference 17

The rest of the settings are the same settings as the other one.

Then in Pattern Editor or manually reshape the sleeve/shoulder as pictured below.
I'm also posting a picture of where to find the squared kimono setting. Eliminate the gusset.

Jill



(Kimono Square Dolman.PNG)



(Kimono sleeve.PNG)



Attachments
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Attachments Kimono Square Dolman.PNG (58KB - 0 downloads)
Attachments Kimono sleeve.PNG (8KB - 1 downloads)
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jak10
Posted 2012-03-13 12:30 PM (#80630 - in reply to #80627)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse


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Thank you, Jill , for this information> I can look at a computer screen a hundred times and never notice parts of it. I didn't realize that there were square and round settings for the kimono sleeve. I also love all your illustrations of how your achieved your look. Must be the best dressed nurse around! JoAnn
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barbara
Posted 2012-03-13 6:29 PM (#80637 - in reply to #80627)
Subject: RE: Vintage? Blouse


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Jill thanks for your explanation. I see how you got the torso darts, I didn't know how that worked.
I see how you made the sleeve. On the pattern that I was using, I just wasn't sure how the sleeve would turn out.
I did think about the kimono too. My pattern is more like a jacket, so it has very low armhole.

Your blouse is beautiful, and you are a magician at this.
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