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Jeans - First Rendition
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StMike
Posted 2012-02-09 11:32 AM (#80151)
Subject: Jeans - First Rendition



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Posts: 539
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Here are pictures of my first pair of jeans.




(StanJeans1Front.JPG)



(StanJeans1Back.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments StanJeans1Front.JPG (77KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments StanJeans1Back.JPG (74KB - 2 downloads)
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PurplePincushion
Posted 2012-02-09 12:12 PM (#80152 - in reply to #80151)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition



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They look good! Any suggestions for fitting pants for men in PMB? I know my hubby would love it if I could make him some Carhartt type work pants. I might even get him to go fabric shopping with me - lol!
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StMike
Posted 2012-02-09 12:34 PM (#80153 - in reply to #80152)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition



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Location: Evansville, Indiana
Thanks.  Men in general have an almost straight shape from the waist through the hips and down.  Even though big stomachs and back ends may take up some of that, my PMB program wants to draw too much of a shaped side seam in that area and I wind up with jodhpurs.  For the jeans in the picture, I had to trim the jodhpurs off manually (thus straightening the side seam) before sewing.  I took off more than half an inch on each side seam (total of 2-3 inches).  I just could not figure out how to get the program to draw a more straight side seam from hip to knee and yet end up with a somewhat narrow leg and not a straight leg baggy jean.  I am still working on that.  Karen suggested taking the No Side Seam pant pattern and adding a side seam. That way the side seam will be on grain.  That might work, but still the inner leg seam will have to be curved inward toward the thigh and knee to achieve a more narrow fitting leg.  As is, the No Side Seam pattern has a pretty wide leg shape.  BTW, I used a stretch denim for the jeans.
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Cristina
Posted 2012-02-09 12:37 PM (#80154 - in reply to #80151)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition


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Hi Stan,
please let us know how comfortable are your jeans.
For your next pair of jeans you could use a 3/4" shorter slit in the front
and try to lenghten front crotch extension with 1/4 and back crotch extension with 3/4 "
as a test on a short pant muslin - to check the new fit.
Great work, Stan, tell us how did you sew the front pockets, I need to do that for my next pair of jeans. Thanks, Cristina
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Sewhappy
Posted 2012-02-09 12:38 PM (#80155 - in reply to #80151)
Subject: RE: Jeans - First Rendition


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The embroidery on the back pockets gives them a real RTW look.

I like the colour of the denim too!

Very nice!

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barbara
Posted 2012-02-09 1:26 PM (#80157 - in reply to #80155)
Subject: RE: Jeans - First Rendition


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men are straight in the hips, but so are some women. I know that for sure. I can not get pmb to make a straighter side either, I must pencil in my shape, skirts, pants anything with a hip. It is really the same way with paper patterns too, but once it is done it easier the next time.
It is not real big deal, but then when you make pockets you have to cut the pockets to the shape too.
Once I make a pattern I keep it to use again, pockets and all.

nice jeans
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StMike
Posted 2012-02-09 4:17 PM (#80160 - in reply to #80154)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition



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Location: Evansville, Indiana

Thanks for the tips, Christina.  Are you referring to the length of the fly?  I thought it looked a little too long myself.  I had measured some RTW jeans and used them as a guide.  The fly was 6.5 " long from the waist seam.  I did not follow the sewing instructions for the fly as they seemed to not be correct, and I had to remake the fly.  I used some instructions for a Vogue mens pants pattern instead.  I may try to have a cut-on fly next time.  The crotch seams were drafted with the Flat setting option, and that probably accounts for the extra fabric in the lower front and back crotch areas.  I am going to use the Round option with the next pair.  For the pockets, I pretty much followed the instructions that were posted by TM with the pattern.  Those are not very detailed, but I have done a lot of mans pants pockets previously.  I did make the inside pocket facing big enough to make a kind of front lining attached to the center seam behind the fly.  I did have to create the part of the denim piece inside the pocket  facing that shows in the scoop.  That was sewn to the facing with a lapped seam about 1" beyond the edge of the scoop.  I also made the scoop pattern wider across the waist seam and shallower on the side seam, more like RTW, and redrew the scoop curve.  The jeans are very comfortable and feel like they fit well.  The just don't look as good as I hoped.  But I learned a lot and will make improvements with the next pair.  Thanks again.

 

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Cristina
Posted 2012-02-09 4:43 PM (#80161 - in reply to #80151)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition


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Stan, chosing Round option instead of Flat option wouldn't help, this would get you in another "unkown mix of effects"
try first the main thing: extend horizontally the crotch extension with the amounts I mentioned
and you can curve the sideseam below thigh line to narrow along the thigh.
Sew "a 15 min short pant muslin" with the new fit, and if it doesn't work
you should go back in charts, create one size biger sloper than yours
then feel free in PE to staight the sideseam along waist and hip without fear that will get too tight
and now you can chose the Round option without tightening an already too short back crotch length
moreover if you chose a biger size you don't need to extend the back crotch extension.

For your first pair of jeans
try not to add a double seam along the croth length,
since a double seam creates a biger tension along the curve of the crotch
than a single seam
and to accomodate that we need a different pattern.


Edited by Cristina 2012-02-09 5:09 PM
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Tall Karen
Posted 2012-02-09 9:14 PM (#80162 - in reply to #80151)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition



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Location: Portland, OR
I know nothing of making men's clothes, but just thought I' mention I have found to get rid of the jodhpur effect, I reduce the hip ease to 0. It seems to me that hip ease adds curvature. Karen probably has a better suggestion though.
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StMike
Posted 2012-02-09 10:10 PM (#80163 - in reply to #80162)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition



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Posts: 539
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
It did help a bit, but because I was using stretch denim (2% lycra), I only had 0.8" hip ease to begin with.  I am now working with PE to straighten the side seams by shifting the grain lines (and knee lines) toward the side seam until the seam line is perfectly on grain.  There are other manipulations to do with redrawing the inseam matching the knee width and keeping the original hip and thigh dimensions the same.  I have yet to make a muslin.  Here is what a typical modified pattern looks like so far.  The legs are a little wide.  I may reduce the knee and make the hemline more narrow.


Edited by StMike 2012-02-09 10:13 PM




(StanJeans2_NSS.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments StanJeans2_NSS.JPG (15KB - 1 downloads)
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Cristina
Posted 2012-02-09 11:49 PM (#80166 - in reply to #80151)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition


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Just make sure when you change the Knee settings
in PE
that the Grouped new pattern stays the same as the original Grouped pattern
at waist and hip top pant areas.
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barbara
Posted 2012-02-10 8:14 PM (#80169 - in reply to #80163)
Subject: Re: Jeans - First Rendition


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stmike, it is very interesting how you were able to change the side seams. I don't know if that would work for me, but keep working on it. I don't think I have the strength to do all that, but cheers to you.
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