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Early attempts using PM Knits
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Posted 2012-01-15 11:28 PM (#79719)
Subject: Early attempts using PM Knits

Extreme Veteran

Posts: 418

Here is an entry I just added to my new blog at www.flyingember.com/stitching.  If the links here don't work, please visit the blog to see the photos.

Since I like to sew with knits, I was very when Wild Ginger developed Pattern Master Knits. (PMK)  I had been using Curves where there weren’t very many style choices for tops, or Boutique which was not really designed for stretch fabric.  With Boutique I reduced the ease and took in side seams a lot when making knit tops.  They looked fine but the new knit styles are more fun, and the methods of drafting for the amount of stretch are easier to understand.

PMK has a lot more style choices, but there was a bit of a learning curve and trial to get a good fit.  First of all, I am fairly curvy and tops fit better with a dart or shaping so I don’t obsess about that, yet the sloper was a dartless block.  Second, I had developed a set of extended shoulders for Boutique, because I wear shoulder pads most of the time to help balance my pear shaped hips and thighs.  These extended shoulders didn’t mesh well with the more sloped shoulders of the Knits basic pattern. (see www.flyingember.com/sewing/sewing.html for details on extended shoulders.)

It’s been over a year so I’m not going to write about the first fitting garments I tried.  I went back and forth a few times with PMB Support to finesse a closer fitting shoulder and to try to get the dartless block to fit.  I could not eliminate the wrinkle at the side of the bust, so I’ve decided in the future to use a dart, gathers, princess lines or other design detail to fit my front torso.

But a couple of tops I made during the process came out cute and are worth sharing. 

I used the heart print fabric to make some pajamas as I was testing pants and tops.  The top is an inset panel blouse with semi-fitted waist, and tapered set-in sleeves with a ribbing cuff.  The knit is a moderate stretch and the ease settings are bust and waist .5” and hips 1”.  I cut the front neckline lower because I added ribbing to it before sewing to the side seams.  I also took in the princess seam above the bust for a closer fit. http://flyingember.com/stitching/wp-content/uploads/Heart-pajamas-inset-top-only-PMK5-3-11.jpg

The other blouse is very basic with a curved vee front set at 6.5”, no darts, fitted waist, and set-in three quarter sleeves in a moderate stretch cotton interlock.  After I faced the V-neckline, I hand stitched in the lace inset.  This top fits with wrinkles at the side bust, but so do my ready-to-wear tops.   And no one else seems to notice them.


Edited by PCMomwad 2012-01-15 11:39 PM
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julie w
Posted 2012-01-16 6:06 AM (#79721 - in reply to #79719)
Subject: RE: Early attempts using PM Knits

Extreme Veteran

Posts: 599
The PJs are too cute! and I really like the necline detail on the floral top.
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Grandma C
Posted 2012-01-16 1:53 PM (#79736 - in reply to #79719)
Subject: RE: Early attempts using PM Knits

Elite Veteran

Posts: 970
Location: Alabama
Such a pretty femenine blouse/T shirt and the pj's inspire me to make some for myself
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Kuby McCarty
Posted 2012-01-16 7:25 PM (#79750 - in reply to #79719)
Subject: RE: Early attempts using PM Knits


Posts: 123
Location: Santa Cruz, Ca
Wow, Phyllis,

Those pj's look darling on you!!

The raspberry top is also gorgeous!

These are so inspiring. Thanks so much for sharing them.
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