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Designing Darts - Part 3
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-09 8:54 AM (#79194)
Subject: Designing Darts - Part 3



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO

This thread is more "looking" at a pattern.

Here is a princess draft.

What are the Princess Seams?

What is the side seam?





(Princess Seams.jpg)



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Attachments Princess Seams.jpg (14KB - 8 downloads)
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-12-09 9:17 AM (#79195 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Expert

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Location: Miami, Florida

The princess seams are both style lines and a combinarion of darts. The side seam is a dart.

Susan

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LorIKC
Posted 2011-12-09 10:06 AM (#79197 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Regular

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Location: Stillwater, MN
On this basic draft, darts.

Thanks for these threads, Karen. I'm learning more with each one.

Lori
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TracyaR
Posted 2011-12-09 11:01 AM (#79198 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3


Member

Posts: 22

Location: St Pete, FL
I agree with Susan in Miami. Because of all the seam lines/darts it is much easier to adjust for fit IMHO.

TracyaR
St Pete, FL
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Grandma C
Posted 2011-12-09 1:01 PM (#79199 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3


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Location: Alabama
I also find this very enlightning. Thank You Karen for these exerscises.
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ambro0
Posted 2011-12-09 3:49 PM (#79200 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Location: Queensland, Australia
I am really enjoying these little brain teasers/tutorials Karen - thanks so much!!
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StMike
Posted 2011-12-10 8:57 AM (#79201 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Posts: 539
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
These exercises (brain teasers?) are very informative.  I look forward to reading and studying the answers each day.  Thank you.

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-10 8:59 AM (#79203 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Today this is the draft with different measurements.

Looking at the darts, what can you tell about her measurments?

How do you think this draft will fit?

Is there a change you would make?





(Princess Seams 2.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Princess Seams 2.jpg (13KB - 7 downloads)
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2011-12-10 9:30 AM (#79204 - in reply to #79203)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
Doesn't this one have the Bust offset? That's how my draft looks on the back side seam. And this person either has a very small waist, or there is not enough ease there.

I don't care for such large darts, so I'd either add another dart, or lighten up on the ease at the waist.
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cfonfold
Posted 2011-12-10 9:38 AM (#79205 - in reply to #79203)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Location: Norman,OK

Waist small in comparison to hip and chest. Adding a second dart to both front and back will provide a better fit.

Coopie

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TracyaR
Posted 2011-12-10 9:40 AM (#79206 - in reply to #79203)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3


Member

Posts: 22

Location: St Pete, FL
Something is wrong at the side seam. The armholes are miles apart. Don't know what the problem is but I think the side seam is the problem.

TracyaR
St Pete, FL
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-12-10 10:04 AM (#79207 - in reply to #79203)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Location: Miami, Florida

I agree that these darts are too large. Either two darts front and back would be better or more ease around the body. Also, the side seam would not sew together easily, the shape of back and front are not consistent. I would use the shape of the front on both back and front if I wanted a more shaped waist and would use the shape of the back, if I wanted less shaping.

Susan

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-10 11:01 AM (#79208 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Almost...

I only changed one measurement - which one?

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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-12-10 12:05 PM (#79209 - in reply to #79208)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Location: Miami, Florida

I think you changed her waist measurement.

Susan

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Laura P.
Posted 2011-12-10 12:07 PM (#79210 - in reply to #79208)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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My guess is a decrease in waist, making the waist darts larger?
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-10 12:12 PM (#79211 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

No.

Someone mentioned the side seams are different. 

What measurement was changed?

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Grandma C
Posted 2011-12-10 12:26 PM (#79212 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3


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I think the bra cup size is large. But I think the change is the hip size is or hip ease has been increased.

Edited by Grandma C 2011-12-10 12:39 PM
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-12-10 1:14 PM (#79214 - in reply to #79211)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Expert

Posts: 1895
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Location: Miami, Florida

I mentioned the side seams were different, did you change the hip measurement - making it larger?

Susan

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Carol H
Posted 2011-12-10 1:16 PM (#79215 - in reply to #79211)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Location: Waterloo, Ontario

I think that you have moved the some of the waist dart from the side seam into the front/back dart.  It doesn't look like the overall waist measurements has been changed. I think you made the hip larger?

The f/b waist darts are too large to sew together and be flattering.  I would move some of it to the side seam, or put 2 darts f/b, or both.

This is fun! 



Edited by Carol H 2011-12-10 1:25 PM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-10 1:46 PM (#79216 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

It is the hip.

The side seam is just fine.  This is a larger than usual difference 40 - 32 - 46, but I wanted you to see what is happening.

Before she was 40 - 32 - 40 so the bust plus ease and the hip plus ease matched.  That is why they both touched at the side.

But with the hip so much larger the bust is split and the hip split, but since the bust is 6 inches smaller they can't touch when laying flat, but will be fine put together.

And yes, she needs to use the two dart option for the princess.  I know that this is not a popular choice, but if the goal is a great fit, then use the extra dart.

Do you think other will comment on the darts with the princess lines?  They won't even notice.

I was teaching a class on pants and students wanted to get rid of the front darts because they were "orky".  I had to go around the room and point out the front darts on the pants I was wearing because they didn't notice them.

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LadyRuna
Posted 2011-12-12 4:03 PM (#79222 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Posts: 101
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Location: Oregon
One of the reasons I really love princess seams is that you get the dart control, but don't have to worry about the "dimple" that you can get at the end of a regular dart. That's the only reason I don't like darts - I perpetually either create a "dimple" at the end of the dart, or have to fiddle with the darts numerous times to get both left and right to end at nearly the same height.

I do like these little quizzes (unfortunately, I don't get to log onto the forum often so I usually see them well after Karen has revealed the answer....). They're great to get you thinking and to help you bend your mind around exactly how moving or changing darts can alter the look of a pattern
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-12 5:25 PM (#79223 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Will post a bit more on this subject - but need to do some Christmas things NOW!
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Trish
Posted 2011-12-12 6:26 PM (#79225 - in reply to #79203)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



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Location: Germantown, Tennessee
Interesting! I would move the placement of the shoulder dart outward, so the princess seam lines created a more flattering shape. With narrow shoulders and large bust, the seams are likely to look like this.../ \...or this...( )...as they go from shoulder to waist. I think it is more flattering when the seams are farther apart at the shoulder and closer together at the bust, like this....\ /. But now we are really into details!
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margie2
Posted 2011-12-12 8:55 PM (#79226 - in reply to #79225)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3


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Trish, I so agree with you. Prior to buying PMB, I made a Vogue pattern knit top with princess seams. It was a lovely pattern and turned out well. However, I was much heavier than I am now and the shape of the curves accentuated my shape. Since I am a pear, with very narrow shoulders, it made my hips look even larger than they were. Princess seams allow for easy alterations, but don't necessarily create the best design for some of us.










Edited by margie2 2011-12-12 8:56 PM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-13 11:20 AM (#79230 - in reply to #79194)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 3



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Here is the pattern with the second dart.  You can see how the shape of the princess seams is softer.

One thing I have found is if you have a tummy, draft with 2 darts in front, but only sew one - in this case it would be the princess seam.  This gives additional ease in front and a smoother fit.

This is the last post until the new year.  I have more on darts we can talk about then.

Happy Holidays.





(Princess with darts.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Princess with darts.jpg (14KB - 7 downloads)
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