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Designing Darts - Part 2
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-05 9:24 AM (#79127)
Subject: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

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Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Here are two skirts

Which one will fit better and why?

Where is the design dart?





(skirt darts.jpg)



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Attachments skirt darts.jpg (14KB - 6 downloads)
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Brenda
Posted 2011-12-05 9:53 AM (#79129 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada
For most of us, the curves are more widespread rather than at single dart points as we go around our hips. (Some of us are more like the ball from Part 1, grin) So I would feel that the two darted version would better shape/conform to the actual body curves.

As for which dart is the design dart vs functional....I'm not sure but think it would be the one closest to the CF and CB, the original one drafted by WG?

HUgs
Brenda
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cfonfold
Posted 2011-12-05 1:30 PM (#79132 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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Location: Norman,OK

Would the design dart be the same as what I have always called the construction dart? If so then it is the single dart in the first skirt. The construction / design dart being all the dart allowance in one place for easier manipulation?

I agree with Brenda as to fit.

Coopie

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-05 1:37 PM (#79133 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Instead of Design Dart, I am looking for the dart that is not sewn as a dart, but is part of the Design.
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TracyaR
Posted 2011-12-05 1:47 PM (#79135 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2


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Posts: 22

Location: St Pete, FL
I agree with the 2 darts fitting better. I believe the dart that Karen is speaking of is the side seam.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-05 1:52 PM (#79136 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

That's it.  The side seam is also a dart.

Think of it this way.  If you put a tube of fabric aound you - like the ball, you would have darts on the side seams and front and back.

The greater the difference between the hip and waist, the more darting and longer darting you need.

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Brenda
Posted 2011-12-05 2:41 PM (#79139 - in reply to #79136)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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Karen - Tech Support - 2011-12-05 1:52 PM

That's it.  The side seam is also a dart.

Think of it this way.  If you put a tube of fabric aound you - like the ball, you would have darts on the side seams and front and back.

The greater the difference between the hip and waist, the more darting and longer darting you need.



Of course!! I was wondering why Karen put the Front and Back so close and I was admiring the "dart" at the side seam but ignoring it in the question. DUH! Karen's clue was right in front of my eyes.

HUgs
Brenda
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cfonfold
Posted 2011-12-05 8:46 PM (#79144 - in reply to #79136)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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Good grief! An absolutely freshman error! Just goes to show---

Coopie

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barbara
Posted 2011-12-05 8:56 PM (#79145 - in reply to #79144)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2


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On this particular simple skirt, why is the side dart a design dart? It seems to me that both the seam and the dart are needed for the skirt to fit.

What would the regular dart or darts in the skirt be called?
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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2011-12-06 7:27 AM (#79148 - in reply to #79145)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2


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Probably fitting darts.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-06 7:50 AM (#79149 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

I called it a Design Dart, as it is part of a seam, not a dart drawn on the pattern and sewn.  It is the hip curve seam.

The side seam shape and the darts are all needed for a smooth fit.

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-06 8:42 AM (#79150 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Here are pants.  They are the one dart draft.

How do they differ from the one dart skirt?





(Pants Darts.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Pants Darts.jpg (22KB - 6 downloads)
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-12-06 10:24 AM (#79152 - in reply to #79150)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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The pant draft compared to the skirt draft seems to have a larger side seam dart which reaches all the way to the hip. There also seems to be a large dart at center front and center back (if I am reading your picture correctly).

Susan

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-06 10:29 AM (#79153 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Good read Susan.

Pants have a side seam dart, a cf and cb dart and sewn darts.

I think the sides are about the same.  Later will check that.

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sewsally
Posted 2011-12-06 11:20 AM (#79155 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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There is something wrong with the legs for the pants on the right. Really tight. What caused that?
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-12-06 1:15 PM (#79159 - in reply to #79155)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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Location: Miami, Florida

Sally,

Look again, they are overlapping, the legs are actually wide. I can see what you see but it is an illusion.

Susan

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Brenda
Posted 2011-12-06 3:05 PM (#79162 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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The optical illusion is really funny, sort of like the "vases" one and I got caught by it too the first time I glanced at it. My thought was, "My goodness, that's a really tight little bottom and upper thigh"!!

The dart is different from the skirt because it is straight, not curved. And it's that way because it's at the CF and CB rather than the sides seams the way the sketch goes, right

This is fun Karen!

HUgs
Brenda
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-06 6:41 PM (#79169 - in reply to #79162)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

I just labeled the drawing to make it easier to see.

It's one pair of pants, two fronts and two backs.

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sewsally
Posted 2011-12-06 8:47 PM (#79172 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



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I see ( I think) The two fronts are on the left. The two backs are on the right.

Is that how the skirt is layed out too. The two fronts on the left?

Edited by sewsally 2011-12-06 8:49 PM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-07 6:42 AM (#79175 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

The skirt is two separate patterns. 

The one on the left has one dart, front and back connected at the side seam.

The one on the right has two darts front and back connected at the side seam.

The pants are two fronts, flipped to show the cf dart and the cb dart connected at the side seam.

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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-07 7:16 AM (#79177 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

New question.

What is the difference between the CF and CB seam in the skirt and the CF and CB crotch seam in the pants.

Why are they different?

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julie w
Posted 2011-12-07 7:49 AM (#79179 - in reply to #79177)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2


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The CF and CB on the skirt are on the straight grain with no darting, while the CF and CB on the pants including design darts, I presume (not being a pattern drafter) for the crotch to fit and curve better over the body, thinking back to the covering of the ball.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-07 8:02 AM (#79180 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

Good answer Julie.

The front and back crotch seams of pants curve to fit the body, while a skirt hangs straight.  The cf and cb are straight down from the waist, while the side seam is straight from the hip point.

Pants can hang straight from the hip point for a very straight leg shape, but for most leg styles they draft from hip to knee width.

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Karen Maslowski
Posted 2011-12-07 8:38 AM (#79181 - in reply to #79177)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2


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Location: Cincinnati, OH
To add to what Julie said, the back curve has to be deeper to accommodate the fullness of the body when sitting. Our bodies don't bend the other way. Usually.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-12-07 8:43 AM (#79182 - in reply to #79127)
Subject: RE: Designing Darts - Part 2



Tech Support

500050001000100
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

The depth of the front and back curves are the same.  The back usually has more extension. (This may be semantics so want to clarify)

The blue line shows the depth from the level natural waist and also the level hip is the same.

The red lines show the extension.





(Pants crotch depth.jpg)



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Attachments Pants crotch depth.jpg (24KB - 6 downloads)
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