Wild Ginger Software Forums
Wild Ginger Software Forums
Search Forums | Wiki | WG TV | Newsletter | Blog | Pinterest | Albums | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Vintage Top
Jump to page : 1 2
Now viewing page 1 [25 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   All Things Sewing - Public -> Vintage DesignsMessage format
 
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-05 12:45 AM (#78747)
Subject: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
First the inspiration:





(B7640 wrap top.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments B7640 wrap top.jpg (95KB - 17 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-05 1:09 AM (#78748 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
Now the first attempt
I've got a second one underway that has a lapel collar and a little tweaking for better fit. I'll post that pic as soon as I finish it.

Jill


Edited by JillRN1995 2011-11-05 1:14 AM




(Blue wrap top.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Blue wrap top.JPG (83KB - 20 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Grandma C
Posted 2011-11-05 1:21 AM (#78750 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Elite Veteran

Posts: 970
5001001001001002525
Location: Alabama
Very pretty and I love that color blue on you. Could be I might want to copy that one.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Cristina
Posted 2011-11-05 2:45 AM (#78751 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 374
1001001002525
You did a great job
and you have the advantage to reuse the same design for all types of fabric
even strech fabric.
Very nice.
Cristina

Top of the page Bottom of the page
Belinda
Posted 2011-11-05 3:12 AM (#78752 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1072
10002525
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Nice Jill and I love the colour and fabric too.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
rebells
Posted 2011-11-05 9:48 AM (#78754 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 573
5002525
Location: Minneapolis, MN






Very nice.  I love to see 'inspired by' work.  Would you please post your steps in thinking this through and your settings?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-05 11:28 AM (#78760 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
Thanks!

I'm large busted and my CF is longer than my CB.
I read something on the forum boards while I was making this top about how the program will not allow the CF to be longer than the CB. It will automatically shorten the CF to make it 1 1/2 inches shorter than the CB. My shoulder slope was adversely affected by that change, but I thought that I just had to live with it. The shoulder seam sits more toward the front and the back sleeve cap is much longer than it should be.

I changed my settings once I understood more about how the measurements interact with each other, and the limitations of the program.

So, this top is drafted with my old settings. I drafted the second top with my new settings.

I drafted this as a blouse with a peplum, but during construction I realized that the peplum had an unusual hip curvature that was not flattering at all.
Please setup a blouse style with a peplum on your program and see if it has a high sharp hip curve too. Luckily I had enough fabric left over, so I drafted an a-line skirt with a 7 inch length for it instead.

Settings:
Garment Type: Dress (For the 7" A-line skirt)
Style: Classic
Closure: Single Breasted
Button Size: 3 (This gave more width to CF. I manually extended the cutting line diagonally to the waist to make the mock wrap style. I'm going to try to attach a picture. I extended the CF length too - that's not part of the style, just a fitting need for me. I prefer that to a huge bust dart.)

Front Neckline: Lapel
Back Neckline: Jewel
Front Neckline Depth: 8
Back Neckline Depth: 0.25
Neckline Width: 0.5
Neckline Point: 0

Front Darts: Armscye
Back Darts: Shoulder
Front Torso Darts: 2
Back Torso Darts: 2

Sideseam Shape: Fitted
Bodice Length: Waist Length


Skirt Style: A-Line (I rotated the front skirt darts in PE to the front corner where it meets the bodice. I made a pleat instead of a dart.)

Sleeve Style: Set In
Sleeve Underarm Seam: Tapered
Sleeve Hemline Shape: Straight
Sleeve Length: Three Qtr
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.08
Sleeve Underarm Length: 11.5
Sleeve Overarm Length: 0
Sleeve Hem Circumference: 11.5 (The sleeve is a bit uncomfortable. I should have made the circumference larger.)
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -1.25


Collar Style: Revere
Collar Width: 2.5


Chest Ease: 3
Waist Ease: 1.25
Hip Ease: 2

I manually drew the belt and tie pieces.

I'm going to try to finish the second top this weekend. I like the first top, but I think that I'm going to like the second one much more.









Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-05 11:40 AM (#78764 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
The picture won't post. It's only 12 KB, so I don't know why it won't post. I'm getting this message:


Request object error 'ASP 0104 : 80004005'

Operation not Allowed

/forums/includes/include-upload.asp, line 46


I wish that I understood pictures on the computer better. The pic was over a MB but when I saved it to my desktop it changed to 12 KB. Go figure!

If someone could post an easy tutorial on posting pics to the forum for dummies like me then I would be most grateful!!

Anyway, I'll try to post it later. It shows the changes that I made to the front and skirt.

Jill
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-05 12:01 PM (#78766 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
My daughter is going to try and post it for me.





(001.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 001.jpg (99KB - 15 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Sewhappy
Posted 2011-11-05 12:24 PM (#78767 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 453
1001001001002525
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Lovely blouse Jill,
something you could make over and over again.
Thanks for the pictures.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-09 10:02 AM (#78810 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
I finished the second top, and I like it much better.

It's much more flattering I think.





(photo(1).jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments photo(1).jpg (56KB - 15 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Grandma C
Posted 2011-11-09 11:30 AM (#78811 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Elite Veteran

Posts: 970
5001001001001002525
Location: Alabama
That is beautiful. I would love to make one similar. Hmm, I have a similar piece of silk on hand. How much fabric did it take?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Cristina
Posted 2011-11-09 11:43 AM (#78812 - in reply to #78810)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 374
1001001002525
This is really wonderful, congratulations!

Cristina
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-09 1:46 PM (#78813 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
A little over 2 yds for 54" I used the notch sleeve hem, which required a bit more fabric.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Glendad
Posted 2011-11-09 2:47 PM (#78814 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Veteran

Posts: 146
10025
Location: Mohnton, PA 19540
Jill,  I love you shirt. Especially the second version.   Stunning.   I have a question.  What angles did you use on the lapel collar?

Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-09 5:09 PM (#78815 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
Thank you!

Collar Style: Notched
Collar Width: 2 (Next time I'm going to use 2.5 since it's a little too narrow in the back)
Notched Collar type: Straight
Collar Roll Type: Roll
Notch Width: 2
Notch Depth: 3
Notch Angle: 80
Lapel Width: 1.75
Lapel Angle: 10
Collar Point: 2
Notch Peak Depth: 1

Also, I'm going to round off the back edge of the collar next time. I think that it would look better.

Here's a pic.



(Collar Back.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Collar Back.jpg (79KB - 15 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
julie w
Posted 2011-11-09 5:32 PM (#78816 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 599
500252525
Both of your jackets are stunning.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-09 5:46 PM (#78817 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
Also, my neckline depth was 10. This didn't create a plunging neckline because of the overlap.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
kselner
Posted 2011-11-10 3:14 AM (#78820 - in reply to #78817)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Regular

Posts: 67
2525
I too am large busted 38 h, hate the large dart, and the shoulder seam sits to forward. So can you explain what you did to correct the CL issue?

I'm large busted and my CF is longer than my CB.
I read something on the forum boards while I was making this top about how the program will not allow the CF to be longer than the CB. It will automatically shorten the CF to make it 1 1/2 inches shorter than the CB. My shoulder slope was adversely affected by that change, but I thought that I just had to live with it. The shoulder seam sits more toward the front and the back sleeve cap is much longer than it should be.

I changed my settings once I understood more about how the measurements interact with each other, and the limitations of the program.

So, this top is drafted with my old settings. I drafted the second top with my new settings.

thanks kari
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Cristina
Posted 2011-11-10 11:59 AM (#78826 - in reply to #78815)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 374
1001001002525
Hi Jill,

how did you drape to get your collar?
Maybe you show us a picture how to arrange the bodice and its neckline
on that form shown in the background.

Cristina
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-10 2:05 PM (#78827 - in reply to #78820)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
kselner - 2011-11-10 3:14 AM

I too am large busted 38 h, hate the large dart, and the shoulder seam sits to forward. So can you explain what you did to correct the CL issue?

kari


I'm going to start a new thread to answer your question. I'll put it in the Boutique Measuring and Fit Issues section of the Forum Boards.

I'll be curious to read what others have learned about fitting a large bust.

Jill

Edited by JillRN1995 2011-11-10 2:08 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2011-11-10 3:29 PM (#78829 - in reply to #78826)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
Cristina - 2011-11-10 11:59 AM

Hi Jill,

how did you drape to get your collar?
Maybe you show us a picture how to arrange the bodice and its neckline
on that form shown in the background.

Cristina


I'm not sure that I understand your question. I'm going to copy and paste my style summary for the second top. The picture of the peplum above shows the added flare that I used for the second top. Please let me know if the style summary doesn't answer your question.

Jill

Style Summary: MOCK_WRAP_2

Chart:
Program: Boutique x5
Units: Inches

Garment Type: Dress
Body Shape: All
Difficulty Level: All

Style: Classic
Closure: Single Breasted
Button Size: 3
Number of Buttons: 5

Front Neckline: Lapel
Back Neckline: Jewel
Front Neckline Depth: 10
Back Neckline Depth: 0.25
Neckline Width: 0.25
Neckline Point: 0

Front Darts: Side
Back Darts: Shoulder Princess
Front Torso Darts: 2
Back Torso Darts: 2

Dart Override: 0.125
Bust Pt Vertical: 11.75
Bust Pt Horizontal: 4.5
Upper Front Dart Length: 2
Upper Back Dart Length: 0.75
Lower Front Dart Length: 5.75
Lower Back Dart Length: 5
Back Shoulder Dart Length: 3.5
First Back Dart Position: 3.5

Front Waist Style:
Back Waist Style:
Sideseam Shape: Fitted
Bodice Length: Waist Length

Armhole Depth: -0.25
Side/Arm Point: -0.25
Side/Waist Point: 0
Side/Hip Point: 0

Cf/Extension: 0
Cb/Extension: 0

Shoulder Pad: 0
Shoulder Point: 0
Blousing: 0

Skirt Style: A-Line
Front Waist Darts: 2
Back Waist Darts: 2
Skirt Length: Mini
Finished Cb/Hem Length: 24
Hip Depth: 6.5
Hemline Sweep: Straight
Hemline Shape: Straight

Hemline Flare: 1
Hemline Flare Depth: 0

Sleeve Style: Set In
Sleeve Underarm Seam: Tapered
Sleeve Hemline Shape: Notched
Sleeve Length: Three Qtr
Sleeve Cap Ease: 1.18
Sleeve Underarm Length: 13
Sleeve Overarm Length: 0
Sleeve Hem Circumference: 13
Sleeve Elbow Depth: 8
Sleeve Elbow Circum.: 10.5
Sleeve Cap Height Adj: -1.25
Front Armhole Shape Left: 0.1 clicks
Back Armhole Shape Right: 0.2 clicks

Collar Style: Notched
Collar Width: 2
Notched Collar Type: Straight
Collar Roll Type: Roll
Notch Width: 2
Notch Depth: 3
Notch Angle: 80
Lapel Width: 1.75
Lapel Angle: 10
Collar Point: 2
Notch Peak Depth: 1


Seam Allowance: 0.375
Hem Allowance: 0.5
Facing Width: 2

Chest Ease: 3
Waist Ease: 1.25
Hip Ease: 3

Body Measurements

Chest Circumference: 45.5
Back Shoulder Width: 16.5
Neck Circumference: 12.75
Natural Waist: 37
Hip Circumference: 45
Crotch Length: 29
Height: 64
Weight: 168
Bra Cup Size: B
Center Front Length: 15.25
Front Shoulder Width: 16
Front Shoulder Slope: 18.25
Center Back Length: 16.75
Back Shoulder Slope: 18
Bicep Circumference: 15
Bust Radius: 4.125

Finished Garment Measurements

Front Neck Length: 9.8
Back Neck Length: 6.6
Front Armhole Length: 8.1
Back Armhole Length: 10.1
Front Sleeve Cap Length: 0
Back Sleeve Cap Length: 0
Across Bicep Width: 0
Front Chest Width: 24
Back Chest Width: 24
Front Hem Width: 25
Back Hem Width: 24
Front Waist Width: 19.5
Back Waist Width: 19.5
Front Hip Width: 24
Back Hip Width: 24

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Style Images



Front View


Back View





(CFL Extension.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments CFL Extension.jpg (73KB - 16 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
NancyM
Posted 2012-02-26 8:26 PM (#80332 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: RE: Vintage Top


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 584
500252525
THANK YOU for posting the lapel settings! These are really hard to figure out if you haven't done a lapel collar before.

Nancy
Top of the page Bottom of the page
JillRN1995
Posted 2012-02-26 10:47 PM (#80337 - in reply to #78747)
Subject: Re: Vintage Top



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 464
1001001001002525
Location: Louisiana
This is what I've found helpful when drafting a lapel.

I print the pieces out quarter scale and align the seamlines and tape. Then I fold back on the roll line. It gives me a good idea of how it will look.

I struggled initially with lapels too. Hope that helps.

Jill
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Trish
Posted 2012-03-02 4:46 PM (#80425 - in reply to #78766)
Subject: Re: Vintage Top



Expert

Posts: 2309
2000100100100
Location: Germantown, Tennessee
Jill, I missed this before, but I am so glad to see it now. These tops are beautiful! Congrats....well done!!!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1 2
Now viewing page 1 [25 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version

(Delete all cookies set by this site)
© 1995-2017 Wild Ginger Software, Inc. All rights reserved.