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How to avoid sagging neckline in knits
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StMike
Posted 2011-07-15 1:04 PM (#76540)
Subject: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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Anyone have a sewing tip or two for avoiding a sagging neckline in a knit garment?  I have cut out a Tee Shirt for a friend (PMKx5) with a Curved Vee front neckline, jewel back neckline and facing.  Before I sew the facing I was wondering how to avoid having the neckline sag along the front vee after sewing.  The fabric is not all that stretchy so I selected the stable knit option in SE.  The facing is exactly the same length at the neck opening, so stretching as I sew may not be an option?  Any help?  Thanks in advance.
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-07-15 1:34 PM (#76541 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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Hi Mike,

I would use a good, very fine, fusible stay tape for at leas the vee area of the neckline. You want the tee to still go over the wearer's head but you don't want it to stretch all out of shape. It is a balancing act of how much stay tape and how much stretch.

Susan

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vickys
Posted 2011-07-15 3:05 PM (#76543 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits


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I always take my v-necks into PE and contour them by .50" (per side) otherwise I get the gapping neckline, too. The lower the V, the more it gaps (gapes?).

I have seen other people say they just smush the paper pattern to contour before cutting. I enjoy PE so I do it there.

Like Susan said, I also always stabilize by using something, whether it be twill tape for heavier knits or left over selvedge. I am sure others will chime in with their tricks.

HTH

Vicky in Texas (who lived in Evansville, IN in the 90's)
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cindysews
Posted 2011-07-15 3:24 PM (#76544 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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I use a fine stable fusible tape or clear elastic. I make sure the neckline isn't stretched out at all, measure the pattern not the knit. Sometimes for low necklines (I got this from a Margaret Islander tip years ago) I will take a very small tuck on the pattern facing before cutting it out, if it has a facing. But this stabalizing the neckline (and I think the whole neckline, back and front) should be stabilized to prevent stretching out or you will be sorry after wearing it a few times.
Cindy
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StMike
Posted 2011-07-15 5:55 PM (#76546 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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Thank you all for the great tips.  Here is my strategy after reading the comments:  Use a very lightweight fusible stay tape for most of the neck front edge around the vee; shorten the front neck facing by trimming 0.5" - 75" from the shoulder seam end; then stretch the facing to fit as I sew.  That should put enough tension on the facing seam to keep it from gaping?  Remember the fabric is a poly that is not all that stretchy.  What do you all think?
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Susan in Miami
Posted 2011-07-15 6:00 PM (#76548 - in reply to #76546)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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This sounds good to me, but all knits react differently. Do you have enough fabric to make a tiny mock-up of a neckline with binding? You could practice your technique without danger of ruining the garment.

Susan

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cindysews
Posted 2011-07-15 8:34 PM (#76553 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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I don't think you should take the "tuck" out of the facing at the shoulder seam. Take it from where it will gap. That tiny tiny "dart" in the facing at the gap point which would be low-mid neck opening will snug in the gapping area. In fact a good way to judge where to take that little tuck is to lay the flat pattern on the person and see where the paper neckline gaps, that's your spot! Up on the shoulder, really won't accomplish what you want that tuck to do. I just crease the facing pattern piece at the neckline extending to nothing at the other side. So when you cut it, it's technically smaller than the front piece. The facing piece needs to be stabilized with fusible interfacing, very light, to accomplish this of course.
Also, there are 2 kinds of fusible stay tape that I use. One is bias cut and the other is straight grain, so make sure you don't use the bias cut, that stretches.
Cindy
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Tall Karen
Posted 2011-07-15 9:33 PM (#76555 - in reply to #76543)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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I'm interested in your technique to contour in PE. I always contour by smushing a dart into the neckline. Is it easy to do in PE? How?
Thanks.
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StMike
Posted 2011-07-16 7:35 AM (#76565 - in reply to #76543)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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vickys - 2011-07-15 2:05 PMI always take my v-necks into PE and contour them by .50" (per side) otherwise I get the gapping neckline, too. The lower the V, the more it gaps (gapes?). I have seen other people say they just smush the paper pattern to contour before cutting. I enjoy PE so I do it there.Like Susan said, I also always stabilize by using something, whether it be twill tape for heavier knits or left over selvedge. I am sure others will chime in with their tricks.HTHVicky in Texas (who lived in Evansville, IN in the 90's)


I was not too clear on how the contour is done.  In the curved vee, there is some contour already.  Can you give some detail on how you do the contour.  Do you change the overall curve of the neck line along the sides of the vee?  Thanks.
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StMike
Posted 2011-07-16 7:40 AM (#76566 - in reply to #76553)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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cindysews - 2011-07-15 7:34 PMI don't think you should take the "tuck" out of the facing at the shoulder seam. Take it from where it will gap. That tiny tiny "art" in the facing at the gap point which would be low-mid neck opening will snug in the gapping area. In fact a good way to judge where to take that little tuck is to lay the flat pattern on the person and see where the paper neckline gaps, that's your spot! Up on the shoulder, really won't accomplish what you want that tuck to do. I just crease the facing pattern piece at the neckline extending to nothing at the other side. So when you cut it, it's technically smaller than the front piece. The facing piece needs to be stabilized fusible interfacing, very light, to accomplish this of course. Also, there are 2 kinds of fusible stay tape that I use. One is bias cut and the other is straight grain, so make sure you don't use the bias cut, that stretches. Cindy


Thanks.  That makes sense.  I will give it a try.  I do have both the bias and straight fusible stay tape as you mentioned. It is very lightweight, almost sheer and does not add bulk to the seam. I will be sure to use the straight type
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vickys
Posted 2011-07-16 10:19 AM (#76568 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits


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Here is the link from the Forum where I learned about this: http://www.wildginger.com/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=6170&st...

If that doesn't work, look up "Fitting low necklines" in the PM General Discussions Forum.

Vicky S
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StMike
Posted 2011-07-16 12:15 PM (#76570 - in reply to #76568)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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Wow!  There is a lot of good information in that thread.  I did not know it was on here.  Thanks much.  I will study the whole thread carefully.  From what I have read so far, there is a lot more to fitting the neckline than just a nip and tuck here or there.  I like a challenge.
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2011-07-16 12:28 PM (#76571 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits



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Just make sure you don't undo all your carefull work with too much ironing.  It's easy with a knit.
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ursula
Posted 2011-07-16 12:50 PM (#76572 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits


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This is rather like closing the stable door after the horse has bolted, but for what it's worth - I was taught to make a small dart, up to 2cm wide, on the neckline at the point where gape usually occurs. The point of the dart is at the side seam, almost at the hem. Cut along one dart leg to, but not through, the point. You then overlap the the cut leg to the uncut leg, thus effectively taking a portion out of the neckline. This is good for wovens as well, because they also gape on low, wide necklines.
I have also read that you can take the amount from the centre of the neckline and slope it down to the end of the garment, but I don't think that really addresses the problem area.
Hope this is clear.

You can do it in PE or manually.

Ursula
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NancyM
Posted 2011-07-16 9:36 PM (#76578 - in reply to #76540)
Subject: RE: How to avoid sagging neckline in knits


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Only just saw this thread--sorry for chiming in late. With knits I use straight fusible stay tape, cut by the pattern centered on the seam line, and then trim 1/4" to 3/8" (depending on how low the v-neck is) off one end of the stay tape before ironing it on. Anchor each end, then distribute the garment ease as evenly as I can along the tape, and press it down. This seems to help. I also do this to keep trouser pocket edges from gapping.

NancyM
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