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skirt styles for heavier or lighter fabrics
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kabham
Posted 2011-05-23 10:02 PM (#75430)
Subject: skirt styles for heavier or lighter fabrics


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Posts: 252
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Location: MO Ozarks
I have two pieces of stash fabric that I would like to use for skirts, one is a heavier, napped fabric. The other is much more lightweight and drapey. Both are woven fabrics.

What skirt styles are more appropriate for different weight fabrics?

For example,

Fitted waistband versus elastic waist;

Flared versus straight skirt or A-line;

Patch or trouser pockets versus inseam;

Wide versus narrow hem, etc.


Any suggestions or insights would be appreciated.

Kathy
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Cate - Gold Coast
Posted 2011-05-25 6:02 AM (#75446 - in reply to #75430)
Subject: RE: skirt styles for heavier or lighter fabrics


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Posts: 681
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The first decision would be .. what kind of events do you want these skirts for?  Are they dressy casual evening?

The next would be ... what kind of body shape do you have?  If there is a substantial difference between waist and hip measurement, then I would avoid elastic waists because you clutter your waist with 10 to 12 extra inches of fabric (because you need to be able to pull it on over the hips).

Where is your best hem length - short stiff A-line skirts look appalling on heavy legs but longer versions can work well.

Patch pockets will draw attention to that part of your body - great if you have trim hips.

Inseam or trouser pockets work well for larger hips.

Personally I love straight gored skirts for denim type fabrics because the vertical lines are slimming.

What kind of tops do you want to wear with them - are you a tuck-in person or an overshirt person. Or a jacket person?

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Sewhappy
Posted 2011-05-25 12:34 PM (#75452 - in reply to #75430)
Subject: RE: skirt styles for heavier or lighter fabrics


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Location: British Columbia, Canada
Kathy,  what I do is hold the fabric up to my body in a full length mirror.  See how the fabric behaves as it is draped.
Bunch gathers around the waist, pin in pleats or allow it to hang straight.  You might see a preference in how you like it to hang.  From there you can decide if you want the skirt to have a full or straight silhouette.  Then think about the style you might like for this particular fabric.
Any weight fabric can have different levels of stiffness.  Generally I find, the stiffer the fabric, the more I prefer a straighter silhouette.  Also consider if you plan to line and/or underline and properties of those fabrics.
Light weight, soft fabrics are nice with a narrow or rolled hem if you want a flow-y, flouncy hem.  If you would like the hem with a little more weight, try a .5" to .75" hem where the raw edge is finished with serging or zig zag and then turned up.
With heavier weight fabrics make sure the hem is substantial enough to resist flipping up to the right side.
Knit skirts are really cute with the fullness added in the form of a flounced hem or with godets added between gores on the lower portion of the skirt.
Medium to heavy wovens look great with a straight silhouette combined with full or inset pleating at the hem or with inverted box or knife pleating.
A-line skirts are better if the fabric isn't too stiff, unless it's for a costume (Minnie Mouse?).
Waist band options will factor in as well.  I don't tuck generally, but still like the look of a faced waist skirt. Sometimes the facing is just just wider bias tape or petersham.
As Cate says, I stay away from elastic waists, because of my larger hips, smaller waist unless the fabric is really drapey and the elastic is on the narrow side.  If you can get away with it, go for the comfy-ness. 

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kabham
Posted 2011-05-25 7:39 PM (#75454 - in reply to #75430)
Subject: RE: skirt styles for heavier or lighter fabrics


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Posts: 252
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Location: MO Ozarks
Thanks for the comments. I just need something a bit nicer for church. My waist is 32 inches and hips about 42. Thanks for the tips about draping the fabric in front of a mirror.

I'll just have to take the plunge and see what happens.

Kathy
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