Recreating Vintage Patterns in PE with Radial Projection
Posted 2010-03-02 12:39 PM (#61513) Subject: Recreating Vintage Patterns in PE with Radial Projection
I've been corresponding with another PMB user, and she asked how I use radial projection. I thought I would post my method here as well, in case others were interested. Also, I would really appreciate some feedback as to whether it makes sense and if there are simpler ways to achieve the same goal.
Let's say I see a vintage pattern online that I love, and they show the envelope back with the pattern pieces. I want to recreate this pattern to my size.
1. I right-click on the image and save it as a .jpg to C:\PMBoutique4\Patterns. PMB will have created this file in this location when it was installed. I also make a note of the sizing B-W-H ratio, if I can see it. If not, here are B-W-H ratios based on time period that will work as a reference. They are all a size 12:
2. I go to Pattern Editor in PMB. I click File - Open, and then open my .jpg from C:\PMBoutique4\Patterns.
3. Using my Line and Arc tools in PE, I trace over the pattern pieces. I usually have to zoom in to make sure my tracing is accurate. Once this is done, I click around the area until I highlight the .jpg (it'll look like a big red box when I do) and I delete it. This will show the tracings underneath.
4. Here's where it gets a little tricky. I compare my own measurements to the measurements on the envelope. For example, mine are B44 - W37 - H45. Based on this, I want to use my bust size to set the ratio because, as per the pattern measurements, it is proportionately larger than my waist and hips. It will mean the waist and hips will be larger than necessary, but it's easier to take fabric in than to let it out.
5. I look for a place to find a bust measurement. This will be determined by the type of pattern I have. If it's got a complicated front, I use the back bodice. I measure across at the bust by using the Line tool and then click on the line to seethe length. Let's say the measurement comes to 2".
6. I consider how much ease I want. The Style Editor Ease Chart is a good tool to use. Let's say, for a basic dress, I want 3.5" ease at the bust. 44" + 3.5" = 47.5". I divide that by four (in half for front and back, then in half again, assuming the back bodice is cut on the fold). So. 47.5" / 4 = 11.88".
7. And yet more math, but we're almost done. I want to scale the piece to the size I need. I do this by dividing 11.88 (the desired measurement) by 2 (the actual measurement).This will give me the percentage I need to scale it by. So. 11.88 / 2 =5.94. That's 594%. That's my magic number.
8. I highlight the pattern piece, but do not group it. I click on the Scale tool, and enter "594" in the Horizontal Distance box, and make sure "Proportional" is checked. Then I hit enter.
9. I click on that line I created to measure the bust, the one that was2". It should now be 11.88". I repeat Step 8 to all other pattern pieces. I then go in and add my seam allowances (I suggest a full inch, rather than 5/8", just for added altering room), using the Offset tool.I group each piece and save the project as a .las file.
10. I print off the pattern pieces and create a muslin to see how everything fits. I expect that there will be more tweaking (dart adjustments,torso length, sleeve length, hem, etc) but I should now have a pattern that basically fits me, where the adjustments are no different than ifI had bought the pattern in my size.
Note: DO NOT save the original pattern piece pics individually as .jpgs. They will save as different sizes and you'll end up having to go through the whole rigamarole for each piece, instead of determining scaling for one and applying to all. Just save the whole envelope pic as one unit, that way you ensure that the pieces are in proportion to each other.
I've had REALLY good luck with this method, and would be interested to hear others opinions!
Note: I do not encourage the use of this method on any pattern that is still protected by copyright laws.
Posted 2010-03-02 1:17 PM (#61514 - in reply to #61513) Subject: RE: Recreating Vintage Patterns in PE with Radial Projection
Location: SE Ontario, CANADA
What a helpful and detailed explaination Jeannine. Thank you for taking the time to detail this for the rest of us. It would be a great wiki entry as well, don't you think Karen?
Posted 2010-03-02 1:44 PM (#61515 - in reply to #61513) Subject: RE: Recreating Vintage Patterns in PE with Radial Projection
I forgot to mention: When scaling the full piece, you're going to end up with a bit more length than you might find on the original pattern. This works for me because I'm 5'10", but those of average height will need to take it into consideration. One way to estimate the original body length of a vintage pattern is to scale one piece twice, once to your measurements and once to a size 12 of that period. Then use the vertical scale percentage from the size 12 and the horizontal scale percentage from your size. Make sure to unclick "Proportional". That should give you a ballpark vertical for 5'5"ish, which as been the average female height since the 50s. To cross check your measurements, use the finished length given on the back of the pattern envelope, if available.