Tips and Tricks
Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 8:09 AM (#57833)
Subject: Tips and Tricks



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Hi All,

Use this thread to post your tips and tricks for sewing faster and smarter.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 8:15 AM (#57834 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Hi All,

A few tips from me to get you started.

1. If you have the luxury, leave your sewing machine and ironing board set up.
2. Spend a day or two getting organized. Create a list of items you really really want to complete and prioritize them.
3. Determine what you want to sew and get the patterns printed and cut out. My least favorite part of sewing is cutting the fabric. Once I get myself past that hurdle, I tend to make faster progress. For myself, I plan to cut out several garments this next week or two and have them ready to sew.
4. Try to sew at least 15 to 30 minutes a day or try to complete one major task each time you sit down to sew. Make all of the pockets, sew all of the darts, sew the major seams, set in the zipper, etc. I find I make fewer mistakes if I complete each major step in one session.
5. Ask for help and let us all know how you are doing.
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 8:32 AM (#57838 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Hi All,

I have a new waistline option that I created last week for the Sandra Betzina TV shows I filmed. It is a cross between a faced and elastic waistline. It is extremely comfortable to wear giving you the look smooth look of the faced waistline with the comfort and flexibilty of the elastic waistline. The "facing" is cut on and turned under. Wide elastic is stitched to the underside of the facing only along the edge of the facing. No casing is actually created. This is a very easy waistline to do. I used an invisible zipper as well to get a really smooth waistline with no bulk. It can be created for many different styles including straight, flared, and gored. I have posted a picture of my finished patterns below and will post a picture of the skirt I made shortly.

At some point, it will make it into the program in an update. For now, it is really easy to do in PE and I will show you how later this week.



(Faced_Elastic_Waistline.png)



Attachments
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Attachments Faced_Elastic_Waistline.png (2KB - 16 downloads)
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 8:40 AM (#57839 - in reply to #57838)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Hi All,

To allow for future alterations due to changes in weight:

1. add 1 inch seam allowances for side seams in pants and skirts and press the seams open.
2. sew zippers into the center front or center back seams only. It is nearly impossible to alter a garment with a side seam zipper.
3. choose the darts/elastic waistline or my new faced/elastic waistline option (more to come on this one)
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rowena___.
Posted 2009-09-05 8:58 AM (#57841 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Location: music city, USA

cool thread, lisa!

for other alteration options, choose shoulder princess seaming, but sew the pieces in this order: 

  1. side front to side back at the shoulder
  2. center front to center back at the shoulder
  3. princess seam from front hem thru shoulder to back hem.

the princess seam can be taken in as needed, and at the same time can be reshaped as needed.

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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 9:02 AM (#57842 - in reply to #57841)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Excellent! Not one I ever tried. I love princess seams. They are so slimming and can be done in an infinite variety of styles. I did the princess panel for the TV shows last week. I will post a pic in a bit.
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rowena___.
Posted 2009-09-05 9:05 AM (#57844 - in reply to #57842)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Location: music city, USA

thanks lisa, that is a trick i learned in a costume shop.  costumers are all about the alterations.  :D

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kirsten
Posted 2009-09-05 10:44 AM (#57859 - in reply to #57838)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Lisa, I am so tempted to join. I need motivation at the moment as I realized that I need to change my style as my age has changed also.

I am busy with skirts at the moment and I want to make the skirt that you showed with the high waist, so your tip on the faced/elastic facing is what I would love. I have a small waist compared to my 2 sizes larger hips so need to fit the waist closely. Waiting for your tip before I complete my skirt.

Thank you for the tips, of making patterns, cutting altogether etc. That sounds better.

Rowena, your tip about sewing order of princess seams is something I will use, it should be so much easier to match the shoulder seam, something that I am very particular about.



Edited by kirsten 2009-09-05 10:47 AM
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 10:50 AM (#57860 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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I have large 12 x 18 zip lock bags for projects.  Nothing worse than not being able to find the zipper when you need it.  Everthing is in the bag, plus it's large enough to put most projects in while working on them.  Hate to not find a facing.

I also have some small baggies for thread - bobbins - buttons - small notions - I then put them in the big bag - makes them easier to find.

Also, I make notes on the pattern if doing something special.  I also use masking tape to put notes on the fabric pattern pieces.

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dotmoll
Posted 2009-09-05 11:21 AM (#57862 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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This is so simple...I keep a cheap old exercise book, and write down EVERY step I can think of for a project (on alternate lines, in case I forget something...). Then I number everything, and box together major steps, so I can keep the whole process organized in my mind.

I do check the sewing instructions in the User's Guide, but going through things in my own mind makes the difference for me - no more days wasted, too scared to go on and maybe make some silly mistake (e.g. forgetting to cut on a little extra seam allowance for integrated pockets)!
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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 11:25 AM (#57863 - in reply to #57859)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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kirsten - 2009-09-05 10:44 AM

Lisa, I am so tempted to join. I need motivation at the moment as I realized that I need to change my style as my age has changed also.

I am busy with skirts at the moment and I want to make the skirt that you showed with the high waist, so your tip on the faced/elastic facing is what I would love.



The skirt above is actually not a high waisted skirt. The "facing" is turned down at the waistline markings you see on the pattern. The darts go through the facing. It does need to sit at the natural waist and be straight across to work though. The elastic is then sewn to the underside of the facing.
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kirsten
Posted 2009-09-05 11:45 AM (#57865 - in reply to #57863)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Thanks Lisa, makes sense, I will use this also.

I have started having my skirts right in the natural waist as my upper body is long and my legs are short in comparison. So having a long as possible vertical skirt is working for me.

What is the tallest straight waist band that works without making the skirt into a high waisted and shaped.

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Lisa - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-05 12:01 PM (#57867 - in reply to #57865)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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kirsten - 2009-09-05 11:45 AM

Thanks Lisa, makes sense, I will use this also.

I have started having my skirts right in the natural waist as my upper body is long and my legs are short in comparison. So having a long as possible vertical skirt is working for me.

What is the tallest straight waist band that works without making the skirt into a high waisted and shaped.



I would guess no more than 2". Wider than that and they will start to get up against the bottom of the rib cage. I like my waistbands at about 1 1/2" wide.
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cfonfold
Posted 2009-09-05 7:50 PM (#57878 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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This is going to be an invaluable thread! One of my frustration savers is to always cut a 1" seam allowance at seams where a zipper is to be installed. So much easier to work with! And with 1" you can easily choose to use a slotted zip or lapped zip. And can change your mind at the last minute if necessary

Coopie

P.S. And thank you Lisa for this set of threads--some where to crow if we want, pass on things we have learned from experience,ask advice, and if necessary--mourn our failures!

C



Edited by cfonfold 2009-09-05 7:57 PM
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Fashions by Joellyn
Posted 2009-09-05 10:54 PM (#57888 - in reply to #57878)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


Lisa, I have been using this type of waistline for quite awhile with my slinky knit skirts and pants. I don't stitch all the way around anymore, but I do tack the elastic in place at seams and sometimes at the darts. Do you do something like this to hold the "band" in place or use some other method?

Edited by Fashions by Joellyn 2009-09-05 10:55 PM
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magenta
Posted 2009-09-06 5:42 AM (#57894 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Hi everyone. I'd like some advice on adding an all-in-facing to a sleeveless dress or top. I followed some instructions in a magazine I have, but there was no way it would turn to the inside. The dress has an invisible zipper on the back. Should this be added before or after sewing on the facing. Grateful for all your advice!

Sarah
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rowena___.
Posted 2009-09-06 9:56 AM (#57903 - in reply to #57894)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Location: music city, USA

we have a couple of threads about this on the forum, i'll try to find them.  this should go in a separate thread, as it isn't really a tip, it is a construction technique.  karen uses one technique, i use another, and the zipper makes a difference.

edited to add:

this link has karen's description of how she does it:

http://www.wildginger.com/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=7431&posts=19

this link has my description:

http://www.wildginger.com/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=5834&posts=5

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magenta
Posted 2009-09-06 5:13 PM (#57917 - in reply to #57903)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Rowena, thanks for the links. I started the 'gold medal' one, but couldn't find it anywhere. How do I move this thread to the right place?

Sarah
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rowena___.
Posted 2009-09-06 5:55 PM (#57920 - in reply to #57917)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Location: music city, USA

don't worry about it, the other threads exist in the right forums.  i just didn't want to start a discussion here about them.

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Cate - Gold Coast
Posted 2009-09-06 10:33 PM (#57932 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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For my PMB projects, I bought a folder with plastic sleeves.  I print the summary sheet out first and keep it here with a sample of the fabric.  As I make up the garment, I hand note any changes or problems.

I can then use the folder as a reference the next time I make something similar.  (eg 7.5cm bust ease was suitable for that garment but that was a stretch fabric so perhaps I need a little more for this new project - or perhaps not because this project is sleeveless and that one wasn't.

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Fashions by Joellyn
Posted 2009-09-07 11:55 AM (#57943 - in reply to #57932)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


Excellent idea, Cate! Like Karen, I also have large clear plastic bags that zip shut where I put my projects after I cut them out, keeping all the parts together. I've been keeping my summary sheets in a folder, but recently wished that I had kept a record of what fabric I used for specific projects.
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julie w
Posted 2009-09-07 5:41 PM (#57956 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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I keep a diary of what I have sewn with a swatch of fabric, a picture, either a line drawing or by hand, and any changes I would make in the future. I save the style sheet and pattern on the PC or if I think it will be something I will make frequently I keep a hard copy in a plastic sleeve.
Julie
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pamelac858
Posted 2009-09-09 6:41 AM (#57972 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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I save my patterns to include the description of the fabric and the date, then I make hand notes as Cate mentioned, during and after construction, and I keep them in chronological order in a plastic folder for future reference. I keep it with my travel stuff because when we are on the road - about 60-70% of the time - I plan and create styles so I know what to sew when we get back home.

A pattern/style might be something like: bl_heath_kn_9909 for a blue heather knit created on Sept. 9, 09. My stash are my friends; I know each piece by heart and that's all I need to remember what I made.

Pam
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-09 7:08 AM (#57975 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Remember the Style Catalog - you can put notes and pictures there and save it and print it out.
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pamelac858
Posted 2009-09-09 7:23 AM (#57976 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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Thanks for that, Karen. I haven't quite mastered adding to the Style sheeets yet, I'll try it!
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-09 7:46 AM (#57977 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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The catalog prints, but does not let you change it.

Style sheets open in word - you can add or remove info you don't need - highlight with color and add your own pictures there too.

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pamelac858
Posted 2009-09-09 8:38 AM (#57978 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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Thanks so much for the reminder. It's great to learn (or remember!) all that the programs can do. Unfortunately, I somehow lost my Styles folder and haven't been able to find it in my backup files, though admittedly, I've not spent a lot of time searching. I have printouts of everything, I'd just have to re-enter the data and re-save. So this information will be helpful as I rebuild my folder.

Pam
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Karen - Tech Support
Posted 2009-09-09 8:44 AM (#57979 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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The style catalog saves to the database.  You can't lose them unless you replace your database.

The style sheets or summaries (they are text copies of the style catalog - they do not make the catalog work) save to C - PMBoutique4 - StyleSheets.  If that folder is not there they won't save to the default and the style catalog will give you an error.

If you don't save to the Catalog, you can still save your summary.  You can direct that summary to any folder.  Again, this is just text.  It does not operate in the program.

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txsueh
Posted 2009-09-20 12:45 PM (#58409 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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I use gallon size zip bags to store my used printed patterns that I wish to keep. I use a single hole punch and punch a hole through the bag at center above the closure. I then slip it onto a inexpensive metal curtain rod holder. The holder is slipped onto an open-ended pants holder and hung in the closet. I separate the patterns by blouses, pants, etc. One curtain rod holder will hold several bags. The Style sheet is printed and placed so that it can be seen when flipping through the bags to find a pattern.
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magenta
Posted 2009-10-28 2:10 AM (#59190 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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I bought a set of four hooks that are attached to an inverted U-shape so it can be hung over a door. (Sorry - that's the best I can describe it!?) I have my current dress-sloper on a coat hanger over one hook, the two patterns I'm working on cliped to croc clips then using a bit of ribbon to hang them onto 2 other hooks - if I was taller, wouldn't need the ribbon! On the last hook are to necklaces I bought recently because a) I like looking at them and b) they are the colours of my latest wardrobe plan - keeps me focused! How about having an album where we can put pictures of our sewing spaces - I'm very tooty, as my Mum would say!

Sarah
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magenta
Posted 2009-10-28 5:05 AM (#59192 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Just thought of something else I do. When following a list of instructions, I put a bit of blue/yellow tac next to where I'm up to, so if I'm called away I know where am. Obviously something more complicated than 'how to eat a bar of chocolate' or how to drink a glass of wine'.

Love you all
Sarah

Edited by magenta 2009-10-28 5:07 AM
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carolelgin
Posted 2009-10-30 6:13 PM (#59224 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: Tips and Tricks



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Hopefully this question will generate a tip.

I am trying to apply a 1/8th inch wide ribbon. It is not actually a ribbon - more like a thin shiny shoelace. It frazzles the second I cut it. The braiding foot with a zig zag stitch do a great job on the rest but it looks like a really bad perm at the beginning and at the end.

How does one start and finish this type of decoration?

Thanks in advance.

Carol


Edited by carolelgin 2009-10-30 6:13 PM
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LI-teacher
Posted 2009-10-30 7:00 PM (#59225 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


Clear nail polish?
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rowena___.
Posted 2009-10-30 9:34 PM (#59226 - in reply to #59224)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Location: music city, USA
if the ribbon is synthetic you can melt the end in a flame.


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carolelgin
Posted 2009-10-31 7:10 AM (#59227 - in reply to #59226)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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It is synthetic and you are brilliant!



Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

Carol
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gallinio
Posted 2010-08-22 7:13 AM (#64805 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Hi I have been wondering how you add pictures to the style catalogue?
Also does anybdy know a tip to remove yellow dressmaking carbon lines off white fabric. the fabric was so flimsy that the lines show through.
I have washed it already but they are still there!
Eva
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Mariette Rose
Posted 2010-08-22 2:00 PM (#64835 - in reply to #64805)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Eva:

In answer to the carbon marks---evidently you have the waxy carbon paper b/c the chalky carbon paper would have come out in the wash. My advice, and I haven't checked this b/c I don't have waxy paper, is to try Goo Gone on a scrap of fabric. It has a citrus base. It will take out grease and if the paper is waxy, then that is grease. But try on a scrap of the same fabric, if you have any left. It's just a guess b/c in my 50+ years of sewing, I haven't had the problem. My problem now is to get the chalky marks to stay long enough for the garment to be finished! I usually use tailor tacks instead of the tracing paper anymore. Good luck!
(You can find Goo Gone everywhere---fabric stores, hardware store, groceries, K-Mart, etc.)

Mariette
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gallinio
Posted 2010-08-22 3:06 PM (#64843 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Hi Mariette
Thanks for the reply.
I am imagining the faces of the shop assistants when I ask for GOO GONE!
It is virtually impossible to get anything here, but I have sisters in the USA and maybe they can get me some and send it to me.
The strange thing is I too have trouble keeping it on usually, it is the first time it has stayed on fabric this way. The hassle is that it is so thin and white so it is showng right through.
Eva
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Mariette Rose
Posted 2010-08-22 3:41 PM (#64848 - in reply to #64843)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Having not paid attention to your location, I didn't realize you were not in the States. That being the case, give me a couple of hours. I have a stain removing book in my laundry and when I get downstairs in an hour or so, I will look it up. Hang on-----
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ursula
Posted 2010-08-22 4:06 PM (#64851 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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Hello, Rowena!!! I have been wondering where you were and was going to write and ask. Pleased to hear you are still with us


Ursula
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Mariette Rose
Posted 2010-08-22 4:27 PM (#64854 - in reply to #64843)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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Okay---for the tracing paper residue--

I couldn't find anything directly but try this: Put clean white paper over the stain. Press with a very hot iron but not steam. Look at the paper and ee if that lifts the stain.

My stain book says for "greasy stains"---"A grease solvent (cleaning fluid) will be needed. This will remove the spot equally well after the article has been laundered. Let the material dry and sponge it repeatedly if necessary. Fabrics with special finishes often tend to hold greasy stains."

Also, it states---"rub liquid detergent into stains that appear after washing and then rinse with hot water."

I would try my heat and paper suggestion first. Then try the liquid detergent. If all else fails, try the cleaning fluid. Again--test first!

I hope one of these helps.
Mariette
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ursulab
Posted 2010-08-22 8:45 PM (#64871 - in reply to #64851)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


100100
Her posts are from 2009... I'm wondering where she is too.

ursula - 2010-08-22 4:06 PMHello, Rowena!!! I have been wondering where you were and was going to write and ask. Pleased to hear you are still with us Ursula
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Beverly A.
Posted 2010-08-22 9:33 PM (#64875 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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Eva: If you pressed the fabric already, you might as well forget getting it out. Heat just sets the tracing paper. Otherwise, I hope you find a solution. Next time use tailor tacks. No stains.
Beverly A.
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gallinio
Posted 2010-10-05 8:07 AM (#67566 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks



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hello everybody
thanks for the tips and sorry I did not get back to any of you for ages but life has just taken over. i finally got most of the markings off the fabric by using a mixture of OXY POWDER, SOAP POWDER AND DISHWASHER LIQUID. I MIXED IT AND RUBBED IT INTO THE MARKINGS AND LEFT IT FOR A FEW HOURS AND THEN PUT IT IN THE WASHING MACHINE.
I did this twice and almost all gone.
I will definitely try the other techniques and I will add them to a tips and tricks book that I am going to make for my own use. It is so easy to forget when you are busy.

EVA
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Cate - Gold Coast
Posted 2010-10-05 10:32 PM (#67609 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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You have my sympathy - I find yellow chalk just vanishes off any coloured fabric but even the most limited use on white fabric is disastrous.  I don't find tailors tacks useful to mark things like centre front lines, button holes and other places where a fine straight line is required.

Re the ribbon question - would satin stitching at either end for say 1/4 inch have worked?

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Beverly A.
Posted 2010-10-06 6:55 PM (#67666 - in reply to #57833)
Subject: RE: Tips and Tricks


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Cate: Then you run a line of basting stitches. No marks to try to remove. Works just fine for what you mentioned. It may take a little more time but again, easy to remove.
Beverly A.
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