Posted 2007-02-25 10:04 AM (#27249) Subject: Cotton/rayon/lycra fabric an okay choice for pants?
Location: Little Rock, AR
I bought a piece of stretch woven (68% cotton, 30% rayon, 2% lycra) from Sew Baby some time ago for a pair of pants for me. The fabric description said it is suitable for lightweight pants and skirts with a little stretch.
I was all set to cut into it (after fine-tuning my muslin) for a simple pair of slacks using the slim cut, when I started to read Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing Step by Step. After learning about her tips on how to line pant fabrics or stabilize them with Fusi Knit, I have gotten cold feet. Should I do that with this material? Has anybody had experience with this and can tell me how the designs turned out?
Posted 2007-02-25 10:14 AM (#27250 - in reply to #27249) Subject: RE: Cotton/rayon/lycra fabric an okay choice for pants?
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Claudia, have you laundered it first? Rayon and cotton both shrink, so that's job one.
Also, how much stretch does it seem to have? Some fabrics with Lycra need less ease, since they tend to loosen up once they've been worn for a little while. It's hard to tell, though, without actually sewing them and wearing them.
If you've washed them, and you already know that your PMB pants fit you, I say go for it. Just be sure to try them on before you put the waistband on, so you can make sure you don't need to stitch out a little of the ease.
Posted 2007-02-25 10:34 AM (#27252 - in reply to #27249) Subject: RE: Cotton/rayon/lycra fabric an okay choice for pants?
Location: Little Rock, AR
I've laundered the fabric. Emma One Sock sells cotton/lycra (although this piece didn't come from her) and advises on her web site not to make lycra pants too fitted, even though they stretch. I was going to use .5/2/.5 (waist, hips, crotch) ease, the same as I do on my muslin.
I tried to gauge the stretch factor using the scale in my Armstrong book. I can stretch it as much as 70% (horizontally only, there is no vertical stretch), but I don't know if I am overstretching. Some distortion occurs at this point. Without that, it stretches by about 30 to 40 percent.
If not interfacing or stabilizing the whole thing, should I use some tricot underfacing in the front knee area to avoid bagginess?
Posted 2007-02-25 2:54 PM (#27260 - in reply to #27249) Subject: RE: Cotton/rayon/lycra fabric an okay choice for pants?
Is this fabric drapey as well as lightweight? Then I would suggest adding some fullness to the pants and making them more unstructured. If it is really lightweight, perhaps it would be a better blouse. But if you feel it is a good pants weight, the stretch will help the slim cut be more comfortable and mobile.
I would hesitate to do too much stabilizing, because then you take away the comfort stretch! Can you baste or pinsome around your leg, sit in it for awhile, and then see if the knees bag out?
Posted 2007-02-26 1:12 PM (#27282 - in reply to #27249) Subject: RE: Cotton/rayon/lycra fabric an okay choice for pants?
Location: Germantown, Tennessee
I am thinking like Phyllis.... I would tend to make the pants looser and drapier rather than fuse on an underlining to try to 'beef-up' a fabric.
With really drapey fabric, I tend to go with an elastic waist and looser legs...(see my photo album for details.) But even if you wanted to stick with zipper and waistband, you could still just make the legs a little fuller, to take advantage of the drapier nature of the fabric. I would NOT fuse at the knee only...it is bound to show! Just make the knee width adequate so that it won't stretch out with knee movement.
Posted 2007-02-26 1:57 PM (#27285 - in reply to #27249) Subject: RE: Cotton/rayon/lycra fabric an okay choice for pants?
Location: Little Rock, AR
Uh, I did sort of chicken out. I found a piece of heavier cotton at the bottom of my stash that I just cut out for this particular pant pattern. It's been so long that I've made pants that I just couldn't get up the courage to cut into one of my favorite fabric pieces. So the stretch woven will wait a bit, but it's draped over the footboard of my bed, in plain sight, beckoning.
I won't interface the knees, thanks for that advice. The weight is definitely suited for a pair of pants or a skirt or jacket. Not nearly drapey and light-weight enough for a blouse or even a looser pant.
If I hadn't read S. Betzina's book, I wouldn't have fussed about my fabric choice. But my zipper wouldn't have turned out so well, either.
I am so curious to see how this pattern will turn out. It's been an interesting experience. My sloper (with the full cut legs) fits nicely around hips, crotch, tummy, waist. Then I chose slim legs with a knee width circumference of 17 inches (I think the setting was .75) and a hem circumference of 14 inches , copying that measurement from another RTW pant, and that was too tight. It distorted the fit completely and felt uncomfortable. Fortunately, this was a muslin. I opened the leg seams, pinned it with smaller seam allowances and noticed a definite improvement, although I still needed a little more width. On my final pattern, I made the hem circumference larger (kept the default, actually, of 14.75) and chose a knee width setting of 1 for a total circumference of 19. It's slimmer than my sloper, but not a slim as I think I would like it. But I am and hope to make good progress this week.
Posted 2012-07-09 7:20 PM (#82668 - in reply to #27249) Subject: Re: Cotton/rayon/lycra fabric an okay choice for pants?
Although I'm not nearly as experienced as most of you are, I sometimes have sewn silk organza into the mid section of the pants leg to keep the knee from stretching too much. I've not had a problem with bagged out knees since then. I made the same mistake of purchasing a cotton/lycra (5%) blend in the past and have never been happy with the recovery of the stretch. It just doesn't recover enough in my limited opinion. I have a few pairs of RTW capris this has happened with also. What do you all recommend for pants if I want just a little stretch