Posted 2017-09-10 12:00 PM (#92284) Subject: Question for the experts about drafting facings
I am creating a pattern for a surplice neckline dress with a midriff waist. I started with a basic midriff style in PMB, and then I modified it in Pattern Editor. I rotated the waist dart, and a portion of the bust dart to the midriff seam, and then I draped the pattern on my dress form to create pleats. I shaped the neckline into a modified S curve manually. I'm satisfied that the bodice fits me well, and the pleats are radiating from my bust at the correct angles.
Now I need to create pattern pieces for the facings and lining. I wish that I had formal training in pattern-drafting, but I don't. I have Helen Armstrong's book, "Patternmaking for Fashion Design". I followed her directions to create the facing, but I'm not positive that this will work for this particular neckline. One of the pleats is 3/4" away from the neckline, so I'm not sure how to draft the lining and facing with regards to that. I created a 1/2" facing with 3/8" seam allowances, but I worry that it is too narrow.
Please tell me if I'm on the right track, or if I should do something different with the facings. Should I simply cut the lining out of the full bodice piece, and eliminate the facings?
I want this dress to look couture. My husband will be wearing a custom tailored suit, so it's important to me that my dress ends up looking just as nice.
PS: I accidentally posted this in "Computer-Ease". Please move it to the right location. I'm sorry that the bodice pic is sideways. It was oriented correctly on my computer, and I don't know how to rotate it for the forum.
Posted 2017-09-10 2:09 PM (#92285 - in reply to #92284) Subject: RE: Question for the experts about drafting facings
Jill, it has been a while since I have made the type of garment you are making, but I will enter my worth. The last time I had to make a special garment was about 7 years ago for my youngest daughter's wedding. It was a blue knit dress - she got married at the ballpark!
I would do facings in addition to the lining. Attach the lining to the facings. Without the facings, the lining can creep up and over the edge. You don't want that! To be true couture, you would have to do this all by hand. Hopefully, no one is going to see the inside, so no one will know the difference. I would make the facings deeper than 1/2".
I would make a separate lining by copying the finished bodice that you draped. I would then pleat the pattern and make the facings from that. Make facings from the edge and deduct that amount from the lining. Don't forget to add back the seam allowances! I can't tell you how many times I forgot to do that! Does this make sense?
I use foam core board and tacks when I have to do these things by hand. It works really well to keep all the pieces where they should be while you work.
I could be so far off that my input makes no sense. If so, disregard, and carry on.
Posted 2017-09-10 2:43 PM (#92286 - in reply to #92284) Subject: Re: Question for the experts about drafting facings
Thanks Margie! If I make the facing wider, then I won't be able to fold the lining into the pleats, since that first pleat is so close to the edge. Do you think that it will affect the finished look if the lining is pleated separately?
Posted 2017-09-10 2:52 PM (#92287 - in reply to #92286) Subject: Re: Question for the experts about drafting facings
Jill, I think it depends upon what you are using for a lining. I would treat it separately and have the lining pleat, pleat into the facing, or rather what is left of the pleat after you make the facing. I am not suggesting the facing needs to be 2" or 3" inches. I just think a little more than 1/2" would be easier to handle. I think the facing will help keep the fashion fabric pleat where it should be.
It is hard to tell from this distance. Wish I could come over and we could figure this out together.
What fabrics are you using? Did you make a muslin?
Posted 2017-09-10 3:45 PM (#92288 - in reply to #92284) Subject: Re: Question for the experts about drafting facings
<iv>I wish that you could come over too! I don't have any sewing buddy's who live nearby!</div><p> I've made a bunch of muslins to get the fit and the pleats just right.</p><p>I'm using a delicate black silk lace to overlay a silver hammered crepe back satin. Bemberg Rayon lining. I finally got the courage to start cutting. I'll make the facing a little wider as you suggested. Jill</p>