Posted 2015-10-01 3:03 PM (#90393) Subject: Peapod top
I just uploaded a garment photo to my album: http://www.wildginger.com/forums/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=206&...
Perfectly plain tshirt, no reason to upload here except that I was pleased to find that the tucked ornamentation technique--originally intended for bias-cut woven fabric--worked on a lightweight ponte on straight of grain, so I could use it down a sleeve without any need to seam in a separate bias-cut strip. Will be a Christmas present, so I don't know yet how it will hold up in the laundry, but for now I'm happy with it.
Posted 2015-10-02 9:46 AM (#90396 - in reply to #90393) Subject: Re: Peapod top
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Love the sleeve decoration! Would you please explain what you did? Did you use a sleeve with a seam down the center or was the decoration all applied on the outside of a regular sleeve? I'm thinking about getting back into sewing and this would be a beautiful project to start with.
Posted 2015-10-02 2:38 PM (#90397 - in reply to #90396) Subject: Re: Peapod top
Technique is slightly modified from Jennie Rayment, Tucks Textures & Pleats, which I picked up second-hand at a local quilt fair last Friday (for $1!). The decoration is integral to the sleeve, not applied. I sewed the ornamentation before cutting out the sleeve, and starched the knit before starting. Cut the fabric rectangle about 2.5" to 3" wider and a little longer than your sleeve.
1. Chalk three lines down the fabric piece, one in line with the shoulder seam (i.e., down the middle of your rectangle), and one 1" away on each side. (Of course you can vary dimensions.)
2. Fold wrong sides together on one of the outer lines, press, and stitch 1/2" away from the fold, creating a tuck that incorporates an inch of fabric total. I used the narrowest possible zigzag stitch (always use it on knits). Repeat for the other outer line.
3. Press both tucks to meet at the center line. On the wrong side, fuse a 7/8" strip (several short ones is OK) of fusible mesh stabilizer designed for knits between the two seamlines. I tried a sample with lightweight tricot interfacing and it didn't work as well, but this probably depends on the weight of the knit you're using, and maybe also on the decorative stitch you choose.
4. On the right side, hold the tucks open and stitch any decorative stitch down the center line. I used satin-stitch circles because they showed off the variegated thread & looked like peas in a pod.
5. Close the tucks, hiding the decorative stitching, and stitch across them, at right angles to previous stitching, every so often. The book recommended a 2.5" interval, but the samples shown were on bias-cut muslin; using lightweight ponte on the straight of grain, I found that the fabric was a little too thick to fold back nicely (next step), so I increased to 2.75"; eight of these units fit well into my sleeve length with a tiny bit to spare at shoulder & hem. I think you could just use whatever length multiplies out to the right sleeve length for you (or use irregular lengths). Tip: at the center where the tucks meet, stitch across, then take one backstitch back into the other fold, then go forward again. The stretchy knit needs that extra bit of anchoring. I'm not sure I should have gone all the way from one tuck seam to the other, though; it might look prettier with just a tack to fasten the tucks together in the middle.
6. Pull the tucks back on themselves and pin open at center of each unit (between the crosswise stitching) to expose the decorative stitching; they'll form oval "cathedral windows" that you can then press flat.
7. Stitch the windows open. The book recommends either hand stitching, or straight stitching, or blind stitching, along the outside edges of the ovals. I used blind stitching with invisible thread.
Then cut out the sleeve, centering the ornamented strip both vertically and horizontally.