Posted 2014-07-02 12:08 PM (#88273) Subject: gap below collar
Making clerical shirts for a female. These shirts have a collar with a stand, and are modified to make the collar into a tunnel for a white plastic insert. My problem is, when shirt is lying flat, everything looks perfect. When she wears them I can pinch about 3/4"horizontally across the placket under the collar band. It just sticks out. How do I fix this? Thanks.
Posted 2014-07-02 4:43 PM (#88274 - in reply to #88273) Subject: Re: gap below collar
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Can you post a picture of this issue? Sounds like the neck opening is too big? There is a WIKI article on neck openings in the version 5 of the Pattern Master series. There could be some measurement corrections needed in the chart.
Posted 2014-07-20 9:26 PM (#88336 - in reply to #88273) Subject: RE: gap below collar
Hi Angela, which blouse and collar are you using? When I was making shirts for my priest (Anglican) I used a collar band. It worked just the way you describe. It could be that you need to drop the neck depth at CF if the excess falls just below the CF of the collar. I'm just guessing here ---it would be easier if you posted the pattern and summary.
Posted 2014-07-21 8:43 AM (#88337 - in reply to #88273) Subject: Re: gap below collar
Location: Evansville, Indiana
In my men's shirt patterns, I have to trim about 5/8" from the top of the plackets tapering back about halfway to the shoulder seam to avoid too much sticking up and out when left unbuttoned. Lowering the front neck opening doesn't really help much. It just lowers the sticking out part. PM collars and bands have too much "upthrust" in the front for my tastes, and they do not include a space for the knot in a tie. In Tailor Made, you can reduce the upward curve in the collar bands in front but not in the collar piece. That is a job for PE. Boutique does not offer the band front curve adjustment settings. Regardless, I completely redesign my collars and bands to get the look I want. There are several mens custom shirts web pages that give collar specifications for different collar styles. These can one help draft the collar they want in PM programs.
Posted 2014-07-21 9:42 AM (#88338 - in reply to #88337) Subject: Re: gap below collar
Humm. I reshape the mandarin and Nehru collars by changing the lower curve from shoulder seam to cf, but don't normally mess with the neckline . I don't have to worry much about the dress shirt collars. Couldn't get Donn in one if I held a gum to his head! This summer I talked him into wearing a band instead of the regular shirt collars.
I've always thought the first problem to solve might be the neckline. His upper back is rounded and I often add a seam to the collar at CB to help it sit along the neck there. I wear mine pretty high in the back and a bit low in front.
I think of these as alterations for physical "attitude" rather than drafting issues.