Ok, I don't think my blazer lining can take anymore unpicking before it falls apart on me! I don't know how many tutorials i've read and I can't get my head around bagging a jacket lining, can anyone help? It's never something i've been shown how to do. The problem is how much hem allowance I should have on the lining and facing and how I attach it so the facing is to the bottom of the coat and the hem 'jumps' up slightly so it doesn't show beneath the coat. I would be so so grateful for any advice you guys have! Hope this made sense.
Posted 2014-02-22 11:52 AM (#87372 - in reply to #87366) Subject: RE: Coat linings
I cut my linings to the actual jacket length of the sleeve and of the bottom of the jacket. It is like if you had a 2" hem on a jacket, you don't need a hem, you just cut the lining to the length of the finished jacket. I am not sure if I am explaining it clearly.
that will give you the jump hem on the lining that you want.
I sew the lining in with 1/2" seams just slightly more narrow than the basic 5/8"seam I use on the jacket.
I think the trickiest part is the sleeve. I stuff the lining in the sleeve as it would be when wearing and pin the right side hems together with just one pin, at the sleeve seam and then pull the lining and sleeve out and pin the rest of the lining to the end of the sleeve right sides together and stitch around the sleeve hem with 1/2" seam. When you push the sleeve and lining back to how it would be when worn, you have a perfect attached lining.
It is hard to explain without pictures. Someone showed me how to do it, I probably never would have figured it out on my own.
Most of the time I use that method on the sleeves and the attaching the lining to the jacket and then I just loosely stitch the lining to the hem by hand. Sometimes I find bagging and pulling the the jacket through the hole in the side of the lining is too frustrating and it is easier to just do the hem by hand.
It is kind of like half a bag lining or half in the bag lining method, depending on your frustration level. When you are done it doesn't hurt to reward yourself with a glass of wine.
Bagging the whole thing probably looks more store bought, but I don't really care if it looks store bought, it is on the inside and the rest looks just fine to me. Maybe if you would be doing work for someone else they would prefer the store bought look.
I am in the process of lining a jacket made with something called cashmere fleece. It is not as thick as fleece or as stretchy. I never used it before. I saw it at a fabric store it was on sale and I bought it and I have never seen it again, but the selection of fabric in our local stores is depressing these days.
Posted 2014-02-26 5:44 PM (#87407 - in reply to #87366) Subject: Re: Coat linings
Selma, thanks so much. I'm having a look at that tutorial now. Fingers crossed for some good results!
That was a big help Barbara, it's only for myself so if it comes to it I have no probs hand sewing the hem...it will give it the couture finish too And a glass of wine is a definite, maybe even before AND after tackling this one. That cashmere fleece sounds like it will be fab inside the coat, luxurious and warm!