Posted 2012-08-25 8:35 PM (#83146) Subject: ?welts in zip pouch pocket?
I am trying to make a muslin for a jacket with zip pouch pocket, but substitute a welt (double or single) for the zipper. The guide sheet says this is possible, but the sewing handbook doesn't have an entry for it. I have searched for double welt pocket instructions on the Internet, but the ones I am finding all assume a rectangular pocket (usually made from a single long piece of lining fabric), not the curved pouch shape that the pattern drafts. Most of them also assume a vertical or horizontal opening, not one on an angle as in this sportswear-type pocket.
Can anybody refer me to directions for sewing a welt pocket that will work with this curved pouch shape? I've only once attempted a welt pocket, and that was a horizontal opening with a single welt--very different.
Posted 2012-08-25 10:19 PM (#83147 - in reply to #83146) Subject: Re: ?welts in zip pouch pocket?
Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
I've only done one or two welt pockets, but I don't think the shape of the pocket on the inside matters, and you can put the welt at whatever angle you want. It's just a matter of seeing if you can adapt your pattern piece to fit the situation.
Posted 2012-08-30 9:25 AM (#83193 - in reply to #83146) Subject: RE: ?welts in zip pouch pocket?
Location: Newark, Delaware
FWIW, "Just Pockets" by Patricia Moyes from Taunton Press has 28 pages on Welt or Inset pockets with great directions and photos. As the others have suggested, there are ways to change the bag shape after construction, but this book does show how to do it before. I think there had been a Threads article in the late 90's by this author that I followed when making a welt pocket on the diagonal. Book has a 1997 copyright.
But this book goes one step further and shows how to draft a welt pocket that has a welt with a gentle curve and the pocket bag follows the curve. Really ambitious! See pages 81-85.
Posted 2012-09-01 11:14 AM (#83212 - in reply to #83146) Subject: RE: ?welts in zip pouch pocket?
Location: Newark, Delaware
I've searched the Threads online index and can't find the article by Moyes. However you may also want to look at Judy Barlup's technique for getting the bulk out of the welt, "No bulk Envelope Welt". She shows how to re-shape the welt by moving the seams for a single welt pocket. It is in Threads March 1998 Issue 75. It does discuss a slanted welt and illustrate the shape and re-shaping along with giving directions for the bag size and construction. The difference is on the slanted pocket, the angle at the corner of the welts is not 90 degrees.