Posted 2012-01-16 6:02 PM (#79747) Subject: Not stretching out of shape
I'm trying the curved hem for a knit shirt. Since it drafts with a 5/8" allowance at the bottom, and is curved, I assume it's meant to be narrow-hemmed. How can I keep the knit fabric (which has OK but not great recovery) from stretching out of shape as I stitch it? On first attempt I stay-stitched on the fold line (finished edge) but that didn't help. Have ripped out and rinsed bottom of shirt in warm water and hung to dry, and am now ready to try again. Any suggestions? Given that the hem has to be folded twice, it isn't wide enough for double-stick fusible, which is what I normally use to stabilize knit hems before stitching.
Posted 2012-01-16 11:56 PM (#79757 - in reply to #79747) Subject: RE: Not stretching out of shape
Location: Melbourne, Australia
When I sew a curved hem in a knit I prefer to only fold the hem once and coverstitch in place. Like you would on any knit. If you don't have a coverstitch machine then use a twin needle. While you can sew a double fold, narrow hem, be aware it will tend to wave and curl. It can't be tamed like a woven fabric. It's best to use techniques suited to a knit fabric.
I also prefer a wider hem as it sits better in a knit. To coax it around the tighter curves, overlock the cut edge then pull up the needle thread and steam the hem in place before stitching. HTH