My DIL has asked for pants waist to be constructed "the way it is in men's pants." Attached photo shows inside of a pair of my husband's pants, the construction of which is a complete mystery to me. (I've heard the term "waistband curtain" but that's ALL I know about it.)
There are two buttons on the waistband, which show in photo of wrong side as dark dots of thread on right; the waistband extends 2 3/8" beyond the fly overlap edge (3" beyond the zipper itself), and there is a narrower tab sewn to the waistband facing and containing a second buttonhole that ends exactly at the fly overlap edge. I could contrive something like this (with right & left switched), though I'd have to serge the ends of the tab as they would get lots of wear and I don't have a seam to hide them in. (I use the contoured waistband as she wears pants low and is curvy.) Or maybe I could put the extension on the underneath side, put the visible buttonhole where I usually do, and put a second buttonhole in the extension, with a second button sewn to waistband facing?
But what is the function of the third button, the one BELOW the waistband? The pull is arranged to be in the opposite direction from the pull of the two buttons on waistband itself, so I assume the location has to be very carefully drafted. My pants don't have an underlap that sticks out beyond the zipper like the one shown. How does one draft this? Have searched for instructions with no luck so far.
Posted 2012-01-02 3:32 PM (#79483 - in reply to #79482) Subject: RE: pants waist
Location: Eugene OR
A quick glance at David Coffin's trouser book described the below the waistband extension as a fly buttonhole tab. I can't tell in the photo if the pants are pleated, but perhaps that's the reason they use it?. The same as the pocket extension we ladies use to keep pleats looking nice and since this is for a woman , I'd opt for that method instead, especially if she's a plus size. Sadly, David does not tackle this specific fly type, but there's info on how to use petersham & waistband lining that apply to both men and women's pants so that might help. Can you get this book from your library? Also might check David Coffin's blog.
Posted 2012-01-02 6:25 PM (#79487 - in reply to #79483) Subject: RE: pants waist
Location: Near Houston TX
This type of fly is SOP for men's pants. It has nothing to do with pleats. It is to keep the top of the zipper from gapping when the pants are worn. I have been looking frantically for my book on men's tailoring by
Roberto Cabrerra but all I find is the women's and the fly it shows is the "normal" one. I did this type of fly when I took men's tailoring, taught by a professional tailor. It just is a different shape than the normal one. If I were to make another pair for a man, I would use this type. For a woman? Optional IMHO
Posted 2012-01-03 12:20 PM (#79505 - in reply to #79487) Subject: RE: pants waist
Location: Miami, Florida
I have had some beautifully tailored women's pants that were made like this except all the bulk was reduced. It really is a lovely fly when using a lightweight fabric and lining - it is my preference. David Coffin's book "Making Trousers" has several examples and David discusses this type of fly. I agree that the book, and David himself, would be a good resource. He is extremely accessible, I just recently emailed him and he replied promptly.
Posted 2012-01-03 4:43 PM (#79513 - in reply to #79482) Subject: RE: pants waist
Thanks to all. I just went out and bought Coffin's book (have had his shirt book & video for years). Since I am partway through these pants already I am going to go with some of his simpler suggestions (also, he says he doesn't think the button in the fly shield adds much utility). But I think I'll try the shielded fly in the next pair.